SUPPLIES & TOOLS:
Cut out a rectangle of fabric whose dimensions are found as follows: For the width, divide your waist measurement by 3 and add this figure to your waist measurement (round up to the nearest quarter inch); multiply this number by 3 (e.g., divide a waist measurement of 30" by 3 to get 10, add the result to 30 to get 40, then multiply by 3 to get 120"); finally, add one inch for seam allowances. For the length, use the desired finished length of the skirt plus one inch for seam allowances. Note the placement of the border print: for the skirt shown, the rectangle was cut out slightly above the finished edge of the fabric to make sure some of the grey polka dots were visible at the top and not too much of the leafy green print was visible at the bottom.
Cut 1" wide grosgrain ribbon of length determined as follows: Divide your waist measurement by 3 and add this figure to your waist measurement (as you did for the skirt above). Then multiply this number by 2. (e.g., divide a waist measurement of 30" by 3 to get 10, add the result to 30 to get 40, then multiply by 2 to get 80"); Finally, add one inch for seam allowances.
1. Hem the long lower edge and both short edges of the fabric rectangle. To do this, press the raw edge in 1/4", and then another 1/4", creating a doubled-up hem. Stitch along the fold of the hem, pivoting at each lower corner.
2. Gather the upper edge of the skirt by running two rows of long stitches. The first row of gathering stitches should use a 1/2" seam allowances and the second row should use a 1/4" seam allowance. Pull up the bobbin threads to gather the material.
3. Apply the waistband: fold the grosgrain ribbon in half lengthwise and place a pin at the halfway mark. Pin the ribbon to the skirt upper edge on the wrong side of the fabric, placing the pin mark at the left finished hem edge. The lower edge of the grosgrain should just cover the gathering stitches. While pinning, pull the gathers to fit the ribbon. On the right finished hem edge, turn under the short end of the ribbon 1/2" to hide the raw edge.
4. Stitch along the lower edge of the grosgrain ribbon. Trim down the skirt seam allowance to reduce bulk.
5. Fold in the remaining length of ribbon to hide your raw seam allowance, so you create a doubled-up ribbon waistband. Pin in place, and turn in the short end of the ribbon 1/2" to hide the raw edge. Stitch all the way around each edge of the waistband, pivoting at each corner.
6. Try the skirt on, overlapping right over left at the front. Pin the waistband closed where it feels comfortable and mark where the skirt overlaps.
7. Take the skirt off and sew two sets of hooks and bars to close the skirt.
8. Make a bow out of the grosgrain with tails that extend to the hem of the skirt. Hand sew the bow in place where the skirt overlaps.
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