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How To Make A Kitrick the Leprechaun
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How To Make A Kitrick the Leprechaun

Crafting Time:
  • Varies
Skill Level:
  • Intermediate
Project Courtesy of: Red Heart
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Additional Information

Description

SUPPLIES & TOOLS:

  • Red Heart® Super Saver, 1 skein each: Paddy Green (A), Black (B), Gold (C),Spring Green (D), Turqua (E), Carrot (F), Soft White (G), Aran (H)
  • Susan Bates® Crochet Hook: 5mm [US H-8]
  • Yarn needle
  • Stitch marker
  • Fiberfill
  • One pair 12mm safety eyes
  • Yellow tiny buttons (2)
  • Green tiny buttons (4)
  • Sewing needle
  • Matching thread
  • Small amount of red yarn or embroidery floss (for mouth)
  • 20" (51cm) lengths of floral stem wire for poseable leprechaun (2) (optional)
  • Duct tape for poseable leprechaun (optional)

GAUGE: 13 sts = 4" (10 cm); 14 rows/rounds = 4" (10 cm) in single crochet. CHECK YOUR GAUGE. Use any size hook to obtain the gauge.

SPECIAL STITCHES:
popcorn = 4 dc in indicated stitch, remove hook from loop, insert hook from front to back in first dc of 4-dc group, place dropped loop back on hook and draw through.
sc2tog = [Insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop] twice, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops on hook.
sc3tog = [Insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop in next st] 3 times, yarn over and draw through all 4 loops on hook.

SPECIAL TECHNIQUE:
Adjustable ring method—Holding the yarn a few inches from the end, wrap around your finger. Do not remove wrap from finger, insert hook into the wrap and draw up a loop of working yarn. Chain one to secure the loop, and remove ring from finger. Work stitches of first round in the ring. Pull gently, but firmly, on tail to tighten ring.

NOTES:
Leprechaun is worked in pieces that are sewn together. Stem wire can be inserted into the arms, legs, and neck to make him pose-able before sewing all pieces together
Gauge is not critical for this project, but work tightly to ensure that stuffing does not show through stitches.
To change color, work last stitch of old color to last yarn over. Yarn over with new color and draw through all loops on hook to complete stitch. Proceed with new color. In some cases, the old color can be carried up the wrong side (inside) of the piece when next needed. This will reduce the number of ends to weave in later.

DIRECTIONS:

Leprechaun measures 14" (35.5 cm) tall, including hat

SHOES (make 2): Beginning at bottom of shoe, with B, ch 8.
Round 1 (right side): Work 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 5 ch, 3 sc in last ch; working across opposite side of foundation ch, sc in next 5 ch; join with slip st in first sc—16 sc.
Round 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in same st as join, sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in last 5 sc; join with slip st in first sc—20 sc.
Round 3: Ch 1, working in back loops only, sc in each sc around; join with slip st in first sc.
Round 4: Ch 1, sc in each sc around; join with slip st in first sc. Fasten off.
Top of Shoe: Identify 9 sts at center of one end of shoe (for toe end). Top of shoe is worked back and forth in rows.
Row 5 (right side): With right side facing, draw up a loop in the first of the 9 toe sts, ch 1, insert hook in same st, yarn over and pull up a loop, [insert hook in next st, yarn over and pull up a loop] twice, yarn over and draw through all 4 loops on hook, [sc3tog] twice, slip st in next st, turn; leave remaining sts unworked.
Row 6: Skip the slip st, sc3tog, slip st in end of Row 5, turn.
Ankle: Round 7 (right side): Ch 1, work 14 sc evenly spaced all the way around top opening of shoe; join with slip st in first sc—14 sc.
Round 8: Slip st in each st around.
Fasten off. With C, embroider a straight stitch square on the front of each shoe for buckle. Use a small amount of B to stuff the toe of each shoe and set aside.
LEGS (make 2): Beginning at bottom of leg with G, make an adjustable ring.
Round 1 (right side): Work 6 sc in ring; join with slip st in first sc.
Round 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each sc around; join with slip st in first sc—12 sc.
Rounds 3–5: Ch 1, sc in each sc around; join with slip st in first sc.
Round 6: Ch 1, sc in each sc around; change to D; join with slip st in first sc.
Round 7: Ch 1, sc in each sc around; change to G; join with slip st in first sc.
Rounds 8 and 9: Repeat Rounds 6 and 7.
Fasten off D.
Round 10: With G, ch 1, sc in each sc around; join with slip st in first sc.
Round 11: Ch 1, sc in each sc around; change to A; join with slip st in first sc. Fasten off G.
Begin Knickers: Round 12: Ch 1, 2 sc in each sc around; join with slip st in first sc—24 sc.
Rounds 13 and 14: Ch 1, sc in each sc around; join with slip st in first sc.
Round 15: Ch 1, [sc in next 4 sc, sc2tog] 4 times; join with slip st in first sc—20 sc.
Rounds 16–18: Ch 1, sc in each sc around; join with slip st in first sc. Fasten off first leg. Make 2nd leg but do not fasten off.
Join Legs: Round 1 (joining round): Beginning on 2nd leg, ch 1, sc in same st as join, sc in next st; beginning in any st on top of first leg, sc in next 16 sc of first leg, leave last 4 sc unworked and leave corresponding 4 sc of 2nd leg unworked, sc in remaining 14 sc of 2nd leg; join with slip st in first sc—32 sc.
Working from wrong side, sew the matching unworked stitches between the legs together. Decide which side of the joined legs you would like to be the front. Place a small amount of stuffing in the bottom of each leg. Place one shoe on bottom of each leg taking care to place the toes facing forwards and sew in place.
Place a marker in center back of top of each leg.
Round 2: Ch 1, [sc in each sc to 1 st before next marker, 2 sc in each of next 2 sc] twice, sc in each sc to end of round; join with slip st in first sc—36 sc. Remove markers.
Rounds 3 and 4: Ch 1, sc in each sc around; join with slip st in first sc.
Round 5: Ch 1, [sc in next 4 sc, sc2tog] 6 times; join with slip st in first sc—30 sc.
Round 6: Ch 1, [sc in next 3 sc, sc2tog] 6 times; join with slip st in first sc—24 sc.
Round 7: Ch 1, sc in each sc around; join with slip st in first sc. Fasten off.
HEAD: Beginning at top of head with H, make an adjustable ring.
Round 1: Work 6 sc in ring; do not join, work in continuous rounds (spiral)—6 sc. Place marker for beginning of round and move marker up as each round is completed.
Round 2: Work 2 sc in each sc around—12 sc.
Round 3: [Sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc] 6 times—18 sc.
Round 4: [2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc] 6 times—24 sc.
Round 5: [Sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc] 6 times—30 sc.
Round 6: Sc in next sc, [2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc] 5 times, 2 sc in next sc, sc in last 3 sc—36 sc.
Round 7: [Sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc] 6 times—42 sc.
Rounds 8–12: Sc in each sc around.
Round 13: Sc in next 21 sc, popcorn in next sc (for nose), sc in last 20 sc.
Rounds 14–16: Sc in each sc around.
Attach safety eyes about two rows above nose and spaced as desired.
Round 17: [Sc in next 5 sc, sc2tog] 6 times—36 sc.
Round 18: Sc in next sc, [sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc] 5 times, sc2tog, sc in last 3 sc—30 sc.
Round 19: [Sc in next 3 sc, sc2tog] 6 times—24 sc.
Round 20: [Sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc] 6 times—18 sc.
Round 21: [Sc in next sc, sc2tog] 6 times—12 sc.
Rounds 22–24: Sc in each sc around.
Slip st in next st. Fasten off. Stuff head. With yarn needle and F, embroider straight stitches across top of head for hair. Begin by sewing a long straight stitch from one side of top front of head to back center of head to define the part. Then embroider straight sts across the head from the part to the sides of the head. Keep working stitches between the part and sides of head, gradually working towards the back of the head. Keep the stitches very close together, even allowing them to overlap from time to time. Vary the length of the stitches to approximate the look of real hair. Work longer stitches over the top of the head and shorter stitches near the lower edges of the sides to add texture and make shaping the lower edges of the hair easier. Embroider shorter straight stitches near the front of the part for a cowlick and on either side of the front of the face for sideburns.
Notes: It is important to stuff the head before embroidering the hair to prevent the head from puckering as the stitches are worked. Pay attention to the tension of the stitches as you want them to be tight enough to sit smoothly on the head, but not so tight that they deform the head. Stuffing may stick to the needle as you embroider. Take care not to pull the stuffing all the way through to the outside.

EARS (make 2): With H, ch 4.
Row 1: Working in back bars, slip st in first ch from hook sc in next ch, dc in next ch, slip st in last ch. Fasten off. Arrange ears on either side of head, behind the sideburns (spread some of the straight sts apart slightly for ear placement) and even with the nose. Sew ears in place.
With a small amount of red yarn or embroidery floss, embroider a straight stitch "V" for mouth.

HAT
Beginning at top of hat with A, make an adjustable ring.
Round 1: Work 6 sc in ring; join with slip st in first sc—6 sc.
Note: Work first stitch of each round in same stitch as join.
Round 2: Work 2 sc in each sc around; join with slip st in first sc—12 sc.
Round 3: [Sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc] 6 times; join with slip st in first sc—18 sc.
Round 4: [2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc] 6 times; join with slip st in first sc—24 sc.
Round 5: [Sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc] 6 times; join with slip st in first sc—30 sc.
Round 6: Sc in next sc, [2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc] 5 times, 2 sc in next sc, sc in last 3 sc; join with slip st in first sc—36 sc.
Round 7: Sc in next sc, [sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc] 5 times, sc2tog, sc in last 3 sc; join with slip st in first sc—30 sc.
Round 8: [Sc in next 3 sc, sc2tog] 6 times; join with slip st in first sc—24 sc.
Rounds 9–11: Sc in each sc around; join with slip st in first sc.
Brim
Round 12: Ch 1, working in back loops only, [sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc] 8 times; join with slip st in first sc—32 sc.
Round 13: Ch 1, working in both loops, [2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc] 8 times; join with slip st in first sc—40 sc.
Round 14: Slip st in each st around. Fasten off.
Hat Band
With B, ch 2.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, turn—1 sc.
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in the sc.
Repeat Row 2 until piece is long enough to go around hat above brim. Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. Sew ends of hat band together and slip over top of hat and down to just above brim. With C embroider a straight st square on hat band for buckle.

JACKET: Beginning at lower edge with A, ch 33.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn—32 sc.
Rows 2 and 3: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn.
Row 4: Ch 1, sc in first 5 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 18 sc, sc2tog, sc in last 5 sc, turn—30 sc.
Row 5: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn.
Row 6: Ch 1, sc in first 13 sc, [sc2tog] twice, sc in last 13 sc, turn—28 sc.
Row 7: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn.
Row 8: Ch 1, sc in first 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 14 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in last 6 sc, turn—30 sc. Do not fasten off.
First Front: Row 1: Ch 1, sc in first 6 sc, turn; leave remaining sts unworked for back and second front—6 sc.
Rows 2–5: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn.
Fasten off.
Back: Row 1: Skip 1 unworked st following first front (for underarm), join A with sc in next unworked st, sc in next 15 unworked sc, turn; leave remaining sts unworked for second front—16 sc.
Rows 2–5: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn.
Fasten off.
Second Front: Row 1: Skip 1 unworked st following back (for underarm), join A with sc in next unworked st, sc in last 5 unworked sc, turn—6 sc.
Rows 2–5: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn.
Fasten off. Fold fronts over back and sew shoulder seams.
Collar: Row 1: Join A with sc in edge of one front just before shoulder seam, work 13 more sc evenly spaced across back neck edge working last of these sc in edge of other front just following shoulder seam, turn—14 sc.
Row 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 12 sc, 2 sc in last sc—16 sc. Fasten off.
Sleeves (work 2): Round 1: Join A with sc in skipped sc at underarm, work 11 more sc evenly spaced around armhole; join with slip st in first sc—12 sc.
Rounds 2–4: Ch 1, sc in each sc around; join with slip st in first sc.
Round 5: Ch 1, sc in first 5 sc, sc2tog, sc in last 5 sc; join with slip st in first sc—11 sc.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Wrap band around narrow center of tie and sew ends of band together. Weave in ends.

POT 'O GOLD: Beginning at bottom of pot with B, make an adjustable ring.
Round 1: Work 6 sc in ring; do not join, work in continuous rounds (spiral)—6 sc. Place marker for beginning of round and move marker up as each round is completed.
Round 2: Work 2 sc in each sc around—12 sc.
Round 3: [Sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc] 6 times—18 sc
Round 4: [2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc] 6 times—24 sc.
Round 5: [Sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc] 6 times—30 sc.
Round 6: Sc in next sc, [2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc] 5 times, 2 sc in next sc, sc in last 3 sc—36 sc.
Round 7: [Sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc] 6 times—42 sc.
Round 8: Sc in next 2 sc, [2 sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc] 5 times, 2 sc in next sc, sc in last 4 sc—48 sc.
Round 9: [Sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc] 6 times—54 sc.
Round 10: Sc in next 3 sc, [2 sc in next sc, sc in next 8 sc] 5 times, 2 sc in next sc, sc in last 5 sc—60 sc.
Round 11: [Sc in next 9 sc, 2 sc in next sc] 6 times—66 sc.
Rounds 12–21: Sc in each sc around.
Round 22: [Sc in next 4 sc, sc2tog] 11 times—55 sc.
Round 23: Sc in first sc, [sc2tog, sc in next 3 sc] 10 times, sc2tog, sc in last 2 sc—44 sc.
Rounds 24 and 25: Sc in each sc around.
Round 26: [Sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc] 11 times—55 sc.
Round 27: Sc in first sc, [2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc] 10 times, 2 sc in next sc, sc in last 3 sc—66 sc.
Rounds 28 and 29: Sc in each sc around.
Round 30: [Sc in next sc, sc2tog] 22 times—44 sc.
Slip st in next st. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Curl top edge to the right side (outside) of pot. With tail sew curled edge in place. Stuff pot.

COINS (make 24 or as many as desired): With C, make an adjustable ring.
Round 1: Work 6 sc in ring; join with slip st in first sc—6 sc.
Round 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each sc around; join with slip st in first sc—12 sc.
Round 3: TURN, slip st in each st around. Fasten off.
Arrange coins, overlapping edges, into a circle a bit larger than the top opening of the pot. Sew coins together then sew edges of circle of coins to top edge of pot, allowing some coins to overlap with the edge and adding more stuffing as you sew to make the coins bulge upwards out of the pot.

FINISHING: When assembling leprechaun, add stuffing as you sew to ensure that leprechaun is well-padded. Do not stuff so firmly that stuffing shows through stitches.
Pose-able Leprechaun (optional): Bend up the ends of each piece of floral stem wire about ½–1" (1.5–2.5cm). Wrap the bent ends with duct tape to secure and cover any sharp edges. Fold one piece of wire in half. Twist the top (fold) of the piece (this end will be inserted into the neck later). Insert one end of bent piece into each leg. Stuff the legs firmly, distributing the stuffing evenly around the wire. Twist the center of the second length of wire around the first length about 2" (5 cm) from the top (Hint: Hold jacket in place over legs to see where sleeves line up before twisting second length around first length). Wrap twist with duct tape to secure second length of wire to first. Insert one end of second length into each sleeve. Stuff sleeves firmly, distributing the stuffing evenly around the wire. Sew the jacket to the top of the legs. Sew under the lower edge of the jacket (about 3 rows up from lower edge) and sew to legs about 3 rows from top edge of legs. Stuff the body of the jacket firmly. Use your finger to make a hole in the stuffing of the neck. Insert the twisted end of the first length of wire into the opening and insert neck into top of jacket. Take care to keep collar on the outside. Sew neck into opening at top of jacket, sewing through second row of neck. Add more stuffing as you sew, distributing it evenly around the wire and ensuring that the neck is sturdy. Sew bowtie to front of neck. Stuff hat and sew to top of head.
Leprechaun Assembly (if not pose-able): Stuff legs firmly. Stuff sleeves and jacket firmly. Sew the jacket to the top of the legs. Sew under the lower edge of the jacket (about 3 rows up from lower edge) and sew to legs about 3 rows from top edge of legs. Sew neck into opening at top of jacket, sewing through second row of neck. Add more stuffing as you go to ensure that the neck is sturdy (Hint: Insert a short length of wire or dowel to increase the sturdiness of the neck). Sew bowtie to front of neck. Stuff hat and sew to top of head.
Weave in any remaining ends.

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