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Solstice Ripple Shawl
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Solstice Ripple Shawl

Crafting Time:
  • Varies
Skill Level:
  • Intermediate
Project Courtesy of: Lion Brand
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Additional Information

Description

SUPPLIES & TOOLS:

  • Lion Brand® 24/7 Cotton: Black 1 ball (A), Charcoal 1 ball (B), Silver 1 ball (C), White 1 ball (D), Goldenrod 1 ball (E), Magenta 1 ball (F) or colors of choice
  • Lion Brand® crochet hook size F-5 (3.75 mm)
  • Lion Brand® large-eyed blunt needle

    • SIZE:
    • About 18" x 60" (45.5 x 152.5 cm)

    • GAUGE:
    • 2 ripples + 12 rows = about 6" (15 cm).
    • Note: Measure ripples from peak to peak.
    • BE SURE TO CHECK YOUR GAUGE.

    • STITCH EXPLANATION:
    • dc2tog-over-3 (double crochet 2 sts together worked over 3 sts or ch) Yarn over, insert hook in next st or ch and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops, sk next st or ch, yarn over, insert hook in next st or ch and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops on hook.
    • sc2tog-over-3 (single crochet 2 sts together worked over 3 sts) Insert hook in next st or ch and draw up a loop, sk next st, insert hook in next st or ch and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops on hook.
    • tr2tog-over-3 (treble (triple) crochet 2 sts together worked over 3 sts) (Yarn over) twice, insert hook in next st or ch and draw up a loop, (yarn over and draw through 2 loops) twice, sk next st or ch, (yarn over) twice, insert hook in next st or ch and draw up a loop, (yarn over and draw through 2 loops) twice, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops on hook.

    • DIRECTIONS:

    • Shawl is made from 2 Halves that are crocheted together.
    • Each Half is worked in a ripple crochet pattern. The ripple pattern is easy to do, but it’s important to remember that you may need to work several rows before the ripple pattern becomes clear.
    • The ripple pattern consists of alternating peaks and valleys. (Dc, ch 3, dc) form peaks on RS rows and (sc, ch 1, sc) form peaks on WS rows. Dc2tog-over-3 form valleys on RS rows and sc2tog-over-3 form valleys on WS rows. Take care to keep the peaks and valleys of each row aligned. Peaks are worked into the ch-sp of peaks and tog-over-3 are worked centered over valleys of previous rows.
    • To change yarn color, work last st of old color to last yarn over. Yarn over with new color and draw through all loops on hook to complete st. Proceed with new color. Fasten off old color.

    • FIRST HALF
    • With E, ch 89.
    • Row 1 (RS): Dc in 5th ch from hook (4 skipped ch counts as dc, ch 1), (ch 1, sk next ch, dc in next ch) twice, *ch 1, sk next ch, dc2tog-over-3, (ch 1, sk next ch, dc in next ch) twice, ch 1, sk next ch, (dc, ch 3, dc) in next ch, (ch 1, sk next ch, dc in next ch) twice; rep from * to last 10 ch, ch 1, sk next ch, dc2tog-over-3, (ch 1, sk next ch, dc in next ch) twice, ch 1, sk next ch, (dc, ch 1, dc) in last ch – you will have 6 ripples at the end of this row.
    • Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, sc in next ch-1 sp, (ch 1, sk next st, sc in next ch-1 sp) twice, *ch 1, sk next st, sc2tog-over-3, (ch 1, sk next st, sc in next ch-1 sp) twice, ch 1, sk next st, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch-3 sp, (ch 1, sk next st, sc in next ch-1 sp) twice; rep from * to last 5 ch-sps, ch 1, sk next st, sc2tog-over-3, (ch 1, sk next st, sc in next ch-1 sp) twice, ch 1, sk next st, 2 sc in beg ch-sp.
    • Row 3: Ch 4 (counts as dc, ch 1), turn, dc in first st, (ch 1, sk next st, dc in next ch-1 sp) twice, *ch 1, sk next st, dc2tog-over-3, (ch 1, sk next st, dc in next ch-1 sp) twice, ch 1, sk next st, (dc, ch 3, dc) in next ch-1 sp, (ch 1, sk next st, dc in next ch-1 sp) twice; rep from * to last 4 ch-1 sps, ch 1, sk next st, dc2tog-over-3, (ch 1, sk next st, dc in next ch-1 sp) twice, ch 1, sk next st, (dc, ch 1, dc) in last st and change to A in last st.
    • Rows 4-61: Rep Rows 2 and 3 and changing yarn color as follows: Work 2 rows with A, 5 rows with B, 3 rows with C, 2 rows with D, 2 rows with E, 2 rows with D, 5 rows with C, 3 rows with B, 2 rows with A, 2 rows with E, 2 rows with A, 5 rows with B, 3 rows with C, 2 rows with D, 2 rows with E, 2 rows with D, 2 rows with C, 2 rows with B, 2 rows with A, 2 rows with F, 2 rows with A, 2 rows with D, and 2 rows with E. Change to A in last st of last row.
    • Row 62: With A, ch 1, turn, sc in first st, sc in next ch-1 sp, *ch 1, sk next st, hdc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sk next st, dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sk next st, tr2tog-over-3, ch 1, sk next st, dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sk next st, hdc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sk next st, 2 sc in next ch-sp; rep from * across working last 2 sc in beg ch-sp.
    • Fasten off.

    • SECOND HALF
    • Make same as First Half, except use E instead F and F instead of E (in other words, just swap the placement of E and F), and keeping all the other yarn colors the same. Do not fasten off A at end of last row.

    • FINISHING:
    • Hold Halves with RS together and sts of last rows matching. From WS with A, working through both thicknesses, ch 1, sc in each st and ch-1 sp across last rows to join the Halves.
    • Fasten off.

    • Fringe
    • For each fringe, cut 4 strands of yarn, about 15" (38 cm) long. Hold strands together and fold in half. Use crochet hook to draw fold through edge of piece, forming a loop. Pull ends of fringe through this loop. Pull to tighten. Make 18 fringes with E across short end of First Half and 18 fringes with F across short end of Second Half. Trim fringe evenly.

    • Weave in ends.

    • ABBREVIATIONS:
    • beg = begin(ning)(s)
    • ch = chain
    • ch-sp(s) = chain space(s) previously made
    • dc = double crochet
    • hdc = half double crochet
    • rep = repeat
    • RS = right side
    • sc = single crochet
    • sk = skip
    • sl st = slip stitch
    • st(s) = stitch(es)
    • WS = wrong side

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