Stonehill Pieced Handbag
SUPPLIES & TOOLS:
- Stonehill Collection Razzle Dazzle fabrics: 3/8 yd each of 5 coordinating fabrics for body of bag 5/8 yd of another print for lining, gussets and facings
- 1 yd Medium-weight, non-woven fusible interfacing
- 1 pair Round purse handles, 5-1/2" diameter
- 3/4" magnetic snap
- All-purpose sewing thread
- Hand needle
- Pattern-making paper
- Basic sewing supplies
- Sewing machine
- For Bag Strip pattern, measure and cut one rectangle 6-1/2"W x 15"L (includes 1/2" seam allowances).
- For Bag Body pattern, measure and cut one rectangle 15"W x 28-1/2"L. Measure and mark 11" at center of each short end. Taper long edges to meet marks creating a narrow-sided rectangle. Cut pattern on inside lines (includes 1/2" seam allowances). See figure below.
- For Bag Lining pattern, measure and cut one paper pattern measuring approximately 20" square. Near one edge, draw a line 16" long and mark center of line at 8". Using a ruler as a compass, measure from center mark at several locations and mark a 2" and 8" radius. Connect the marks creating two half circles. See figure below.
- Add 2" to the middle of the larger circle and taper the cutting lines at the circle sides creating an elongated half circle. Add 1/2" seam allowance to the straight line between the circles. Cut pattern along all outside lines. See figure below.
- For Bag Facing, measure and cut one paper pattern measuring approximately 10" square. Near one edge, draw a line 8" long and mark center of line at 4". Using a ruler as a compass, measure from center mark at several locations and mark a 2" and 4" radius. See figure below.
- Connect the marks creating two half circles. Add 1/2" seam allowance to the straight line between the circles. Cut pattern along outside lines. See figure below.
- For Gusset, measure and cut one paper pattern measuring exactly 8" square. Fold square in half from opposite corners creating a double triangle. See figure below.
- Measure and mark 3/4" inside one loose corner and taper a curved line to the two adjacent corners. With pattern folded, cut through two layers of paper along inside lines. See figure below.
- Using Strip Pattern, cut one each of 5 coordinating fabrics. Also cut 5 from interfacing. Trim seam allowances from all four edges of interfacing and fuse to wrong side of each strip fabric. With right sides of fabric facing, stitch together each strip at long edges. Press seams to one side and top stitch close to seam. See figure below.
- Position Bag Body pattern on assembled strips with short side edges even. Trim strip assembly to Bag Body shape. See figure below.
- Using remaining patterns, and 6th fabric coordinate, cut two from Lining Pattern. Also cut two from Facing Pattern and two from Gusset Pattern.
- Stay stitch through a single layer of fabric 3/8" from small curved edge on each Facing piece. Stitch a row of long gathering stitches 1/2" from large curved edge on each Facing piece. Turn under long curved edge along stitching and press to wrong side. Turn under short ends 1/2" to wrong side and fuse or stitch in place. Set facings aside. See figure below.
- Stay stitch a scant 1/2" from cut edges on short straight ends of assembled Bag Body. Notch to stitching at center and clip to stitching a few places to either side of notch. On each long curved edge of Body, stitch two rows of gathering stitches at 1/4" and 3/4" from cut edges. See figure below.
- With wrong sides facing, fold each gusset in half matching curved edges and press. Stitch layers together along curved edge. Mark center of curved edge. Pin center of curved edge of gusset to center (notch) of Bag Body. Continue to pin curved edge of gusset to short side edge of Bag Body. Stitch Gusset to Body just inside the stay stitching. Set aside. See figure below.
- Stay stitch through a single layer of fabric 3/8" from small curved edge on each Lining piece. With right sides of fabric facing, stitch two lining pieces together at long curved edge stopping short by 1/2" at each end. Press seam open. See figure below.
- With right sides of fabrics facing, drop Lining into Body and pin and stitch short straight edges of Lining to Body at each end, keeping Gusset sandwiched between the two. See figure below.
- Trim seams and turn assembly to right side. Gently pull gathering threads on Body and using plenty of pins, pin gathers to Lining. Baste 3/8" from edges. See figure below.
- With right side of Facing against right side of Body, pin and stitch together all layers of short curved edges. See figure below.
- Trim Facing, Body and Lining seam allowances to varying widths. Understitch Facing by topstitching close to seam on right side of fabric through all layers of seam allowances and Facing.
- Position Handle in Facing and wrap facing to wrong side of bag. Slipstitch facing to Lining with Handle caught between. See figure below.
- Remove visible gathering stitches from right side of Bag. Insert snap in Facing.