Style In an Instant Dress with Pockets
SUPPLIES & TOOLS:
- 53" shirred knit dress fabric; Note: Measure before purchasing yardage! Measure the bust at the fullest point. Multiply that amount by 1 1/4 or 1.25 to determine the amount needed in inches.
- 3/8 yd. or fat quarter matching lightweight cotton or rayon fabric for the pocket
- Thread to match the fabric
- 3 3/4 to 4 yds. 5/8" wide mini ball trim
- Sewing machine
- Iron & pressing surface
- Basic sewing supplies
- Fabric marking pen or chalk marker
1. Follow steps 2 through 4 to cut the dress.
2. Straighten the edges. Before you cut the front and back, place the fabric around your body and pin the shirred area so if fits comfortably and snuggly in the bodice area. Mark the area for the center front bodice centered over the breasts. Carefully take off the dress, mark the area between the pins that are holding the shirred area together. Measure the entire area for the circumference between these pins. Then measure the area for the center front bodice.
3. Divide the entire area for the circumference in half and add 1" for the front. Cut the front using this measurement.
4. For the front, mark the center of the shirred area. Take the measurement for the center front bodice divide it in half and add 1/2" for seam allowance. Measure out from the center on each side of the front and draw a line parallel to the center. To print the patterns, click on the "Download Project PDF" button (above). Enlarge patterns. Pin the pocket pattern to the front matching the seamline to the marked lines and top seam line to the lower row of gathers. You may have to add on to the side edge of the pocket so it reaches to the side of the skirt area. Cut out along the draw line and the upper curve pocket pattern. Repeat on each side.
5. Cut two pockets using the pocket pattern that has been adjusted to reach the side seam.
6. For the back, subtract the width of the center front panel from the measurement for the entire circumference. Beginning 2-1/2" from one edge of the remaining fabric, measure this amount and mark lines through the shirring. Mark the center back. Mark the side seams at a point 1/2 of the circumference plus 1/2". Make a dot 5" below the shirred section. Trim the remaining end 2 1/2" from the line. Cut along the line until the second row of stitching from the bottom of the shirred section. Trim the shirred fabric off along this row of stitching. Place the pocket along the side edge. Trim along the lower curve of the pocket and along the side edge of the skirt.
7. Follow steps 8 through 16 to sew the dress. Stitch all seams right sides together unless indicated using 1/2" seam allowance.
8. Stitch the pocket to the dress along the curve using a 1/2" seam allowance and beginning below the bottom row of shirring. Trim and clip the seam allowance. Clip to the point at the bottom row of shirring.
9. Press the pocket to the wrong side of the front.
10. Stitch the trim to the finished edge of the pocket turning under the top end along the bottom row of shirring.
11. Stitch the front to the back along the edges of the shirred section. Clip the back pocket to the lower point of the stitching. Stitch again 1/4" from the first row. Zigzag stitch along the edge of the seam allowance.
12. Match the top edge of the pocket to the dot on the side seam and pin the side edges together. Baste the front to the back along the side seams. Try on the dress and make any adjustments to make the side seam and the pocket so the dress fits through the hips. Stitch the side seam and finish the seam allowance.
13. Stitch the edge of the pockets together.
14. For the straps, cut four lengths of trim long enough to go over your shoulder and cross in the back. Overlap the straight edges of two pieces in the center and stitch them together.
15. Try on the dress and place the ends of the straps 2" under the top edge of the dress front. Cross the ends in the back and pin the ends under the back edge. Stitch along the top edge of the gathers. Then stitch again along the second row of gathers. Stitch the pocket in place for 1/2" over the seam allowance at the side edge. Stitch the top of the pocket to the bodice along the lower row of shirring. (Stitching indicated in red on the diagram).
16. Trim the lower edge of the dress to the desired length plus 2-1/2". Press under 1/2", then 2" along the lower edge. Stitch the hem in place by hand or machine.