SUPPLIES & TOOLS:
- McCall’s® pattern 6361 (B)
- Sewing machine
- Basic sewing supplies
Cut: because of the extension, fabric must be 58/60" wide, 2-1/2 yds. will be needed. Cut all pieces from fabric and cuff pieces from lining (print). Interface two waistband pieces on wrong side. Mark center front lines, darts, circles and all notches.
After cutting fabric, snip 1/4" into fabric at the center front and 5/8" from center front along the top edge of pant front. There will be a foldlines marked for the overlap and underlap edge of the fly front.
1. Stitch pocket section to slanted edge of front through all layers. Trim seam allowances.
2. Turn pocket inside. Press.
3. Pin edges to prevent layers from slipping and causing a puckered edge. Topstitch finished slanted edge.
4. Stitch one side front section to each pocket at outer edge, matching notches and keeping front free. Finish raw edges with serger or zigzag. Baste across upper and side edges matching circles.
5. Finish raw edge of front extension with a zigzag stitch. Stitch front sections together at center, between large circles and notch, backstitch at large circle.
6. Fold right front (overlap) under from crotch seam to center front snip. Press. Fold left front (underlap) under from crotch seam allowance edge to underlap snip. Press.
7. Place closed zipper (face up) under left front extension, placing zipper stop at large circle and zipper teeth close to pressed edge. Using a zipper foot, stitch close to edge.
8. Lap right front over left, lining up center fronts. Pin fronts in place with pins close to center front.
9. If there is a bubble at the bottom of the zipper, unpin, smooth the overlap upward until the bubble is gone and re-pin. On outside stitch right front along stitching line.
10. Stitch dart in back. Press fold of dart toward center.
11. Pin back sections, right sides together. Stitch center seam, from upper edge to 1-1/2" from inseams.
12. Stitch front to back at inner leg edges, right sides together, matching notches. Press open and finish edges.
13. Stitch remainder of crotch seam to notch in front. Sew lower third again 1/4" from first stitching. Trim close to second stitching.
14. Stitch back to front at sides. Stopping at slit extension. Clip seam allowance above extension. Press open and finish edges.
15. Easestitch upper edge of pants between zipper stitching.
16. Stitch center back seam of interfaced waistband sections. Trim seam allowances. Press open.
17. Pin waistband to garment, right sides together, matching notches, centers and squares to side seams. Adjust ease. Baste. Stitch. Trim seam allowances, trimming away excess zipper. Press seam allowances toward waistband continuing to front edges.
18. Stitch waistband facing sections in same manner as waistband. Press under 5/8" on notched edge of waistband facing, easing in fullness. Trim pressed-under seam allowance to 3/8".
19. Pin waistband facing to waistband, right sides together, matching seams. Stitch along upper edge, stitching right end even with front edge and left end 1-1/2" from front edge, forming extension. Trim seam allowances.
20. Turn right side out. Press. Slipstitch pressed-under edge over seams, continuing along extension.
21. Topstitch all edges of waistband.
22. Sew hook and eye closure to waistband.
23. Lay cuff pieces on table right side up, place cuff lining (print) on top of cuff pieces face up. Baste.
24. Sew inseam of cuff pieces. Press open.
25. Finish top edge of cuff lining.
26. Sew cuff lining to pants matching inseams and cuff extensions. Clip corners and turn right side out. Press.
27. Hand sew a blind hem along top edge of cuff lining.
28. Press extensions open, creating a straight slit. Hand tack at corners.