Puffy Sleeve Smocked Dress

Item # 452410568P13

Intermediate 3-5 Hours

To find the downloadable patterns click on the "GET PATTERNS" tab.

(See section below if making the slit leg variation)
Measure the smocked section of the fabric to be 3" less than the bust measurement.
The dress can be made smaller later if a tighter fit is desired.
Cut the fabric starting with the smocked section and then continue down through the skirt.
Match the cut ends right sides together and sew a seam.
This will be the center back of the dress.
Finish the cut edge with a zig zag stitch or a serger to reduce fraying.
Cut the skirt to 1" longer than the desired length. Turn the edge in 1/2" twice and stitch it in place.

Trim smocked section from the smooth fabric.
Use the sleeve template to cut two sleeves.
Fold the top edge in 1/2", press with iron, fold in another 3/4", press with iron and stitch. This will be the elastic casing for the shoulders.
Fold the bottom edge in 1/2", press with iron, fold in another 3/4", press with iron and stich. This will be the elastic casing for the wrists.
Repeat for the other sleeve and set aside.
Measure how long the elastic needs to be to reach from the front of the bodice to the back (like straps) and cut two pieces of elastic to that size.
Measure around the wrists and cut two pieces of elastic to that size.
Attach a safety pin to one end of the elastic and insert it, safety pin first, into a corresponding casing. Sew the unpinned edge in place at the edge of the casing, then pull the safety pin through and sew the other edge in place. Repeat for all elastic casings.
Fold sleeves right sides together, matching the long edge. Sew the long edge, but do not sew the diagonal edge at the end. Finish the sewn edge with a zig zag stitch or serger. Repeat for the other sleeve. Set aside.

Place your dress bodice flat with the back seam centered. Line up the bodice template with the top edge and side edge of the bodice and cut. Repeat for the other side.
With right sides together, match the V of the sleeve to the V of the bodice. Begin by matching the points, and then pin the rest of the diagonal to the end.
Sew the V, and finish the edge with a zig zag stitch or serger.
Repeat for the other sleeve.
Making the Dress with a Leg Slit Variation:
After cutting material to the desired width, do not sew the cut ends together but cut the skirt off entirely from the smocked section. IMPORTANT: Cut at the second line of smocked elastic so that your skirt stays gathered.
Match the cut ends of the smocked top right sides together and sew a seam. This seam will be placed at the center back. Set aside.

Trim bottom edge to 1" longer than the desired length.
Determine how far up the skirt the slit should go and mark that spot. Remember, the smocked section will be at the top.
Match the long edges and pin in place. Sew with a generous 1" seam allowance. Begin at the smocked section and sew down to the slit mark. At the mark, switch the sewing machine setting to a long basting stitch. Sew to the bottom edge with the basting stitch.
Cut into the seam 1" above the slit mark, being careful not to cut through the stitching. Finish the edge of the seam from the top to the cut mark using a zig zag stitch or a serger.
Press the slit seam flat and fold the raw edges in on either side of the seam and press again.
Fold the top of the seams in diagonally, making a triangle at the top. Sew down the folded edges.
Use a seam ripper to open the basting stitch.
Hem the bottom of the skirt by folding the edge in 1/2" twice and stitch it in place.
Reattach the skirt to the top by matching the waist ends right sides together. The seam on the top will be center back, and the seam on the skirt should sit between center front and the side seam, so it falls over one leg.
Sew around the waist seam. Finish edge with a serger or zig zag stitch.

How To Make It