SUPPLIES & TOOLS:
- FABRIC:
- Flannel, Cotton, Fleece. See below for amounts by size.
- Pants/Joggers:
- Youth XXS-S: 1 3/4 yards,
- Youth M - L: 2 yards,
- Youth XL: 2 1/4 yards
- Adult XS - M: 2 1/2 yards
- Adult L - XL: 2 3/4 yards
- Adult 2XL - 4XL: 3 1/4 yards
- Shorts:
- Youth XXS - S: 3/4 yards
- Youth M - L: 1 yard
- Youth XL: 1 1/8 yard
- Adult XS - S: 1 1/8 yard
- Adult M - XL: 1 1/4 yard
- Adult 2XL - 4XL: 1 3/4 yards
- NOTIONS:
- Elastic:
- 1" for Youth Sizes - waist measurement + 2" (for joggers, add ankle circumference X 2 + 2")
- 1 1/2" for Adult Sizes - waist measurement + 2" (for joggers, add ankle circumference X 2 + 2")
- 3/8" Grosgrain ribbon for drawstring- waist measurement + 28"
- Thread
- SUPPLIES:
- PDF pattern
- Paper Scissors
- Tape
- Fabric Scissors
- Basic Sewing Supplies
- Sewing Machine
DIRECTIONS:
Pattern Assembly:
- To find the downloadable patterns click on the "GET PATTERNS" tab above.
- Print pattern onto 8.5"X11" sheets of paper. Do not change the scale.
- Trim paper along gray lines.
- Tile the trimmed pages together, matching letters and numbers.
- Tape pages together.
- Trace or cut along pattern lines for the size and style pant being made.
- For shorts and joggers, reference red lines for cutting the hem length. Use a ruler to connect red lines, or fold along the lines when cutting fabric.
- Mark pieces with piece names to avoid confusion while sewing. If using solid fabric, mark the wrong side of all pieces.
Cutting:
- Lay out pattern pieces on fabric following the grain lines as marked.
- Cut pieces according to the directions on each piece. 5/8" seam allowance is included in the pattern.
Sewing Instructions:
- Use 5/8" seam allowance unless otherwise noted.
- For flannel or cotton fabrics, finish edges of pieces with overlocker or zigzag stitch.
Inserting the Pockets:
- Lay one pocket piece, right sides together, on top of each pant leg piece in the top corner. Match side and waist seams of pockets and pant leg.
- Attach the pocket to the pant leg by sewing the side seam of the pocket to the pant. Repeat 4 times for each pattern piece.
- Press the pockets open along the seam, with seam allowance towards the pocket. The right sides of both the pant fabric and pocket fabric should be showing.
- Understitch along the pocket by sewing on the pocket 1/8" from the seam. This will keep the pocket from showing on the outside once finished.
Assembling the Pant Legs:
- Match the front and back legs together, right sides together. Pockets and outer side seams should match. The two legs should be mirror images of each other so that you have a right and left leg.
- Pin around the pocket and down the side seam of each leg.
- Sew around the pocket, starting at the top and continuing down around the curve. When the pocket meets the leg, sew 5/8" into the pant, finishing with the needle just past the seam from attaching the pocket. Lower the needle into the fabric and pivot the pants to sew down the rest of the leg. Repeat for other leg.
- Return to the top of the pants at the waist seam. Pin and sew 1" of the side seams where the pockets are attached, sewing just outside of the pocket seam.
- Fold pockets toward the front of the pants. Pin so that the top edge of the pocket lays flat against the waist seam of the pants. Baste in place using 1/2" seam allowance.
- Match inseams together. Pin and sew along the seam.
Sewing Legs Together:
- Turn one leg right-side out. Tuck leg that is right side out into the other pant leg so that the legs are right sides together. Pants should match at the inseams, center front and center back.
- Pin along the curved crotch seam. Sew along seam, reinforcing at the inseam if desired.
- Turn pants right side out.
Sewing the Waistband:
- Sew short end of waistband right sides together.
- Fold waistband in half and press.
- Unfold waistband and sew 1/2" buttonholes for the drawstring on center front of waistband, so that the buttonholes are 1/4" from edge crease, 3/4" from the center (1 1/2" from each other)
- Lay pants out on worksurface, front side up and right sides out.
- With the waistband still unfolded, pin the waistband right sides together to the waist seam of the pants, matching center fronts. Make sure you are attaching the half of the waistband with the buttonholes and that they are centered at the center front seam.
- Sew waistband to pants.
- Press seam allowance toward waistband.
- Fold waistband along pressed line. Turn seam allowance in and baste or pin in place along the waist seam, enclosing the seam allowance in the waistband.
- Top stitch waistband at seam leaving a 1 1/2" opening at the center back for inserting elastic and drawstring.
Inserting Elastic and Drawstring:
NOTE: Pants can be made with elastic only. Drawstring is optional but will add some flexibility in making the fit smaller as needed.
- Measure elastic to the size of your waist.
- Add 28" to waist measurement for the length of the drawstring.
- Tunnel elastic through waistband using a safety pin. Once all the way around, pin ends together and check to make sure elastic is lying flat all the way around.
- Overlap ends of elastic by 1". Sew ends together using a box stitch.
- Close hole in waistband by hand or machine.
- Finish ends of the drawstring as desired.
- Tunnel drawstring through waistband, starting and ending at buttonholes. Tack drawstring at center back through all layers.
Finishing Shorts and Straight Leg Pants:
- Turn raw edge of hem up by 1/2" and then again 1". Pin and sew along the edge to hem.
Finishing Joggers:
- Sew short ends of jogger cuffs right sides together.
- Fold cuffs in half and press.
- Unfold cuffs and pin one edge, right sides together to the hem, matching seams at the inseam.
- Sew cuffs to pants.
- Press seam allowance toward cuffs.
- Fold the cuffs along the previously pressed line. Turn seam allowance in and baste or pin in place along the seam, enclosing the seam allowance in the cuff.
- Top stitch cuffs at seam leaving a 1 1/2" opening to insert elastic.
- Measure elastic against ankles.
- Tunnel elastic through cuff using a safety pin. Once all the way around, pin ends together and check to make sure elastic is lying flat all the way around.
- Overlap ends of elastic by 1". Sew ends together using a box stitch.
- Close opening in cuff.