SUPPLIES & TOOLS:
DIRECTIONS:
- Patterns: M21/4, M2115, M2116
- Notions from patterns:
- Elastic (add 1 1/3 yd for sabatons), ribbon, lacing
- Two-part eyelets 1/4" silver (30)
- Hammer
- Scissors
- X-Acto® knife - #11 blade
- Cutting board
- Jewels (5)
- Band saw
- Plastic wrap (1 roll)
- Duct tape or 2" masking tape (1 roll)
- Painters Tape (1 roll)
- Power Tac adhesive
- Contact Cement - bottle with brush, 3oz (2)
- Multipurpose heat gun
- Mod Podge, 16oz
- Sponge brushes, 1"
- Chip Brush, 1"
- FolkArt metallic acrylic paint - sequin black (2), gunmetal gray (1), silver sterling (1)
- Paint palette
- Muscle Foam, 24"x 40" sheets: 10mm (1), 5mm (2), 3mm (1)
- 1/4" dowels (4)
- Stretchy fabric (sword grip cover) 1 1/4"x 31"
DIRECTIONS:
- General:
Work in a well-ventilated area.
All large base parts cut from 5mm foam. All trim parts cut from 2 mm foam. Trim will be layered onto base parts.
All envelope patterns needed only for hole and strap locations. EVA needs no covering. Use Craft Foam patterns for EVA parts.
Adjust the trim sizes to fit desired jewel appliques.
EVA 10mm dowels cut into 1/8" slices may be used to represent rivets. Cut 20 at 3" long for loop straps. Cut each end of the 3" pieces 1/2" in from the end and half way through the diameter of the rod. This will provide a flat surface on each end on the rods to glue to the back of the parts at the locations indicated on the envelope patterns.
To add a border trim to the jewels, cut a length of 10mm dowel lengthwise to encircle the jewel. Glue flat surface around the location for the jewel.
Thirty two-part 1/4" silver eyelets may be used to reinforce lacing holes.
Paint parts prior to adding jewels. Leave the space for the jewels unpainted for best adhesion of jewels.
Coating:
Paint one coat of Mod Podge with a foam brush.
Use fine grit sandpaper to soften any rough edges left from rotary tool.
Paint two coats of black paint with a foam brush.
Paint two coats of gray paint over large surfaces with a chip brush. Use dry-brush technique and avoid layering any gray into crevices. Leave the black visible by edges of trim and rivets.
Paint silver paint as a highlight using dry-brush technique.
Sword:
Cut two Blade/Grip/Pommel parts from 10mm foam. Bevel both long blade edges 25 degrees on one side of each. Heat and glue parts together on the flat sides.
Cut two Fuller/Grip/Pommel parts from 5 mm foam. Bevel both long blade edges 25 degree on one side of each. Start the bevel cut at the thick end. Heat and glue flat sides to either side of Blade/Grip/Pommel as located on pattern.
Use a rotary tool with a sanding drum to soften imperfections in blade and to round over Grip and Pommel edges to line indicated on Fuller pattern.
Cut two Guard A parts from 10 mm foam. Heat and glue together. Bevel from the outer curve to the straight line on the pattern. Start bevel at full thickness to approximately 12 mm thickness toward the center of the guard.
Cut one Guard B from 10 mm foam. Heat and glue to Guard A at location on pattern at the flat side of Guard A.
Use a rotary tool with a sanding drum to soften imperfections and round over all edges.
Cut out the center rectangle on Guard B. This will go through all layers of the Guard.
Dry fit the Guard over the grip, snug to the top of the blade. Guard B should be toward the blade.
Heat and glue Guard to area below Grip. Heat sides of Guard and bend toward Grip. Apply one strip of Painters Tape from one side to the other side of Guard to hold the bend until it has cooled.
Optional: Add a 1/8" cut of 10mm dowel to center of Pommel on either side for decoration.
After painting, spiral a 1 1/4"x 31" strip of coordinating fabric to grip. Use Power Tac adhesive to secure.
M21/4:
Step 6, Bra Cup: Wrap bust area on self or mannequin with plastic wrap. Layer duct tape or masking tape over bust area to waistline on one side only. Mark a centerline and waistline on the layered tape. Tape patterns #2 and #4 matching the centers and waistlines. Tape pattern #5 in a comfortable location for the top and side of the breastplate. This trim may need to be adjusted if reshaping the top edge of the breastplate. Use an additional sheet of paper to adjust the curve of the trim adding the centerline to the new pattern. On the tape form, draw above the top trim, under the top trim and where #2 and #4 locate. Draw curved vertical lines through the bra cup to divide the cup into 4 pieces. Label these pieces A through D. Remove the pattern from the mannequin. Continue the A through D panel lines up and under the top trim. Cut #2 and A-D from 5mm foam and #4 and #5 from 2 mm foam. Heat and glue A-D, two sets reverse patterns, bra cups. Glue bra cups together at centerline. Glue trim to top of each side lining up the centerlines. Heat and glue the lower panels together then the top edges to the bottom edges of bra cup panels. Curve all panels to contour the mannequin as they are added. Add rivets.
M2115:
Headpiece Step 7-9, horns: Pattern #5 cut four from 10mm foam. Pattern # 5 cut four halfway up the pattern starting at the wide bottom end. Pattern #4 cut two from 5 mm foam. Heat and glue 2 #5 for each horn, glue one of the half patterns to each side matching contours. On concave side of each laminated horn, glue one of the #4 pattern pieces. This will provide a guide for cutting. With the #4 pattern piece side up, cut the horns to the #4 shape. Use a rotary tool with a drum sander to round the sides of each horn. Make sure that the bottom of each laminated horn is flat. The flat surface will provide the best adhesion to the headband.
M2116:
Shin Guards: Elongate the #11 pattern to include the height of the top and bottom trims. Cut #11 from 5mm foam and layer with the #15 and #17 from 3mm foam.
Hand Armor, Step 10: Use Power Tac to attach elastic for finger to back of armor.