SUPPLIES & TOOLS:

• Simplicity 9452 Pattern
• 5/8yd Cotton Fabric
• 11yd Spools of Gutermann Elastic Thread (2) or 30yd Spool of Dritz Elastic Thread
• Pkg of 1/4" Elastic
• Small Screwdriver (if needed for tension adjustment to bobbin)
• Ruler or yardstick
• Pencil
• Matching Garment Thread
• Sewing Notions

DIRECTIONS:

1. Modify Simplicity 9452: Omit pattern #1 Front. Cut one #2 pattern and place center back seam on the fold. Cut another #2 pattern, adding 1" to the center front seam, and place on the fold (this becomes the front). Do not remove the center front and center back seam allowance. You will not be sewing the pleats. The pattern will be large enough because of the space added for the pleats (Pattern should be 1 1/2 times larger than the bust measurements). To make a casing for the neckline front and back, turn under 1/4", then 3/8", and stitch fold line.
2. Sleeve pattern #3: Shorten long sleeve 4" to make a 3/4 sleeve. Omit pattern #4. Turn cap under 1/4" then 3/8", stitch on the fold edge to make a casing. Cut two 1/4" elastic from pattern #7 as a guide for the cap. Thread the 1/4" elastic through casing, tacking on both ends. Wrap the elastic thread around a bobbin, without tension, and place in machine. The elastic will be on the wrong side of fabric. Omit the marking for the casing at the elbow, but use the marking to sew first row of elastic stitching. Sew 4 rows of the elastic thread at the elbow 1/4" apart.
3. Bodice: Measure down 1 1/2" at front and back neckline bodice and mark a line with chalk. Sew a straight stitch with the elastic thread from end to end. Sew a second stitch 1/4" apart from the first (this will become the first set of stitches). Measure down 1 1/2" from the first set for the next row of elastic stitching. Repeat stitching for six more sets. Sew side seams. Cut two elastics to the neck measurements of #5. Thread elastic through front and back neckline and tack both ends. Sew sleeve underarm seam. Sew sleeve into bodice. The elastic of the sleeve cap and bodice neckline will match together. The sleeve may need slightly gathering to match the gathering made by the elastic thread to bodice.
4. Sew a turn and turn hem for the bodice and sleeve.

JOANN HACKS:

• Cotton or any lightweight fabric works best using the elastic thread.
• Lengthen stitch length to 3 or 4, depending on the sewing machine.
• Block steam when finished garment.
• Tensions may be needed slightly.