DIY Skirted Ottoman

SUPPLIES & TOOLS:

• Loctite Spray Adhesive, High Performance, 13.5oz
• Mineral spirits
• Wood glue
• 50pk wood screws, 1 1/2"
• Staple gun & staples, 1/2"
• Lumber:
• 2 x 2, clear, 2 @ W - 4 1/2"
• 2 x 4, 4 @ H - 4 3/4"
• 1 x 10, 2 @ W - 1 1/2", 2 @ L
• 1 x 12, 1 @ L - 1 1/2"
• 3/4" Plywood, 1 @ L x W
• Foam, 4" High Density, 1 @ L x W
• Cardboard, 3/4" W x 4 times perimeter of ottoman
• Tape measure
• Drill & drill bit, sized to screws
• Screwdriver bit for drill
• Circular saw or jigsaw
• Sander & sandpaper
• Electric knife or bandsaw
• Hammer
• Ruler
• Batting, Hi-Loft, M/L
• Fabric, see instructions
• Sewing machine
• Sewing notions
• Rotary cutter & cutting board
• Quilter's rule, 2'
• Marking pen
• Cording, 3 mm, 2 x L + 2 x W + add 3"
• Area to spray glue
• Interfacing for skirting (optional)
• Stain & varnish for ends of legs (optional)

DIRECTIONS:

NOTE:
Determine finish size of ottoman.
Lumber in instructions may need to be adjusted for an ottoman smaller than 15 3/4" W. Reduce W of 1 x 12 center support.
Seat support not necessary for 2' W x 2' L or smaller ottoman. Attach plywood to top edges of 1 x 10 sides prior to attaching foam. Wrap batting down sides of foam to inside edge of side 1 x 10.

Frame: Cut
Legs, 2 x 4, 4 @ H - 4 3/4" (foam w/plywood H)
Sides, 1 x 10, 2 @ L, 2 @ W - 1 1/2"
Seat support, 1 x 12, 1 @ L - 1 1/2"
Braces for seat support, 2 x 2, 2 @ W - 4 1/2"
Seat, 3/4" plywood, 1 @ L x W
4" foam, 1 @ L x W, cut with electric knife of bandsaw

Batting: Seat, L + 14" x W + 14"
Sides, 1 @ W 14" x L perimeter measurement

1. Round over cut bottom ends of 2 x 4 legs with sander.
2. Spray adhesive on top of foam and one surface of plywood. Press together matching edges. Lay out seat batting on a flat surface. Spray adhesive on center of batting and 4" foam top. Flip the foam with plywood attached, foam side down, onto center of batting. Spray adhesive on side of foam and batting. Press batting to side and onto plywood. Spray one side at a time and press in place. Cut off corners of batting and press to foam. Lay strips of cardboard over batting lining up with edges of plywood. Staple through cardboard to secure batting to plywood. Cut away excess batting. Optional: Wrap a layer of muslin to cover batting. Adjust steps by adding the cardboard strips over the muslin, not over the batting. Set aside.
3. Mark and attach 2 x 4 legs to long 1 x 10 sides. Top end of leg flush with long edge of 1 x 10, 3/4" in from short cut end of 1 x 10. Pre-drill holes and attach with glue and wood screws from 1 x 10 side. Repeat to attach two legs to each long side panel.
4. Mark and attach 2 x 2 seat support to short 1 x 10 sides. Center length of 2 x 2 on length of 1 x 10 (1 1/2" from either cut end), 3/4" down from top. Pre-drill holes and attach with glue and wood screws from 1 x 10 side. Repeat.
5. Place frame base together. Legs on long sides facing the same direction. Place the short sides with 2 x 2 braces facing the inside of the box frame, at the top of the frame, fitting between the 2 x 4 legs. Pre-drill holes and attach with glue and wood screws from the 1 x 10 short side into 2 x 4 leg. Repeat.
6. Soften all edges of 1 x 10 with sander.
7. Add batting to 1 x 10 sides. Wrap the batting around to the inside of the 1 x 10. Use 3/4" cardboard strips with staples to attach. Use scissors to cut into the batting at the legs. Fold the batting onto the edge of the 1 x 10 around the legs. Secure in place with cardboard strips and staples.
8. Add seat support. Set cut ends of 1 x 12 centered on top of 2 x 2 seat supports. Pre-drill holes and attach with glue and wood screws from the 1 x 12 side.
9. Attach the seat to frame. Lay the foam top seat, plywood up. Center the frame on top, legs up. Pre-drill and attach with wood screws.

Fabric, 1/2" SA unless noted: Cut
Seat top, 1 @ L + 1" x W + 1"
Seat sides, 2 @ 5 3/4" x L + 1", 2 @ 5 3/4" x W +1"
Piping, 1 @ 1 1/2" W x L (perimeter of frame) + 3"

Skirting:
Traditional length 1/4" from floor, adjust for carpeted area
Sides, heavy fabric, 4 @ L x 2, W + 1"
Lightweight fabric, 4 @ L x 2 + 1 1/2" (3/4" SA at top), W + 1"
Gussets (corners), heavy fabric, 4 @ L x 2 -1 1/2", W 10"
Lightweight fabric, 4 @ L x 2, W 10"

1. Seat sides RST, alternate lengths if L and W not the same. Sew short ends together 1/2" SA starting 1/2" from one corner. This will create a loop. Press seams open. Topstitch 1/4" from seams.
2. Place seat top and sides RST. Match corners of loop that are not sewn to the corners to the seat top (this will allow the corners to flair at the turns). Sew 1/2" SA. Press seams open. Topstitch 1/4" from seam.

Piping: Fold 1 1/2" strip of fabric WST over cording matching long raw edges. Sew close to cording with a zipper foot. To add lengths of fabric set short ends of fabric RST at a 90 degree. Sew at an angle from one long edge to the other. Trim excess fabric and open. Attach piping to seat sides. Start piping at the center of one long side. Line up raw edges of piping with raw edges of sides. Sew with a zipper foot as close as possible to the cording. Start 1" in from end of cording. Clip into edge of piping fabric to turn corners. When close to the start, open the seam on the end of the piping. Trim the cord inside the end section so the two ends match when laid in place. Fold the fabric under and cover over the splice of ends. Finish stitching in place.
Heavy fabric: Place the seat top/sides with piping RSO on foam seat. Pull down on sides. The piping should lay at break between plywood seat and 1 x 10 sides of frame. Place the raw edges of fabric onto 1 x 10 sides. Staple in place. More staples will be added on top for skirting so staple only enough to keep the piping edge straight. Set aside.

Skirting:
Heavy fabric: Fold RST on length, one edge to 1 1/2" from other edge. The single layer, 1 1/2", is the front of the skirting. This will reduce bulk when attaching to frame. Mark 1/3 of length + 3/4" down from top front on both sides. Sew sides 1/2" SA from the bottom corners to the mark. Clip corners. At the mark, clip straight in from the raw edges to the seam. Turn RSO. Fold out raw edges above the mark. Press. Baste top edges and raw sides together, close to the edge, down to mark. Topstitch 1/4" from side seams and bottom fold. Fold and press front top edge 3/4" back to match basted edge on back. Repeat.
Gussets: Fold RST on length. Sew sides 1/2" SA on sides. Clip corners. Turn RSO. Press. Baste top close to edge. Topstitch 1/4" from side seams and bottom fold. Repeat.
Lightweight fabric: Fold RST on length matching top edges. Press. Mark 1/3 of length + 3/4" from top front on both sides. Sew short ends 1/2" SA from the bottom corners to the mark. Clip corners. At the mark, clip straight in from the raw edges to the seam. Turn RSO. Fold out raw edges above the mark. Baste top edges and raw sides together, close to the edges, down to mark. Topstitch 1/4" from side seams and bottom fold. Repeat. Gussets same as heavy fabric.
Sew skirting into a loop. RST sew 1/2" SA at the raw edges. Match bottom corners of skirting. Open seams. Press. Topstitch 1/4" from seams. Find center of top of gusset. RS of gusset to WS of skirting. Align center of gusset with corner seam of skirting. Match the bottom fold of gusset with the bottom fold of skirting. Sew gusset to skirting 1/4" from top raw edge.
Lightweight fabric: RST skirting and gussets to seat top. Match up raw edges of piping with top edge of skirting. Match corners. Sew with a zipper foot close to piping. Place seat fabric onto foam, skirt flipped up. The piping should lay at break between plywood seat and 1 x 10 sides of frame. Place the raw edges of fabric onto 1 x 10 sides. Staple in place. More staples will be added on top for skirting so staple only enough to keep the piping edge straight. Place 3/4" strips of cardboard on top of raw edges of fabric, corner to corner of frame. One long edge of cardboard pressed up against piping. Staple in place with 1/2" staples. This will ensure a clean straight line for the top fold of skirting. Flip the skirting down.
Heavy fabric: Use an office stapler to attach 3/4" strips of cardboard on WS of top edge of skirting, from corner to corner. Place skirting WSO around frame, bottom folded edge of skirting toward top of seat cushion. The cardboard edge away from the edge of fabric will lay up against the piping. Staple 1/2" staples through the cardboard strips to attach. Flip the skirting down.

JOANN HACKS:

• Use a pressing cloth over batting to steam press out any wrinkles prior to applying batting to frame.
• Tap all staple heads with a hammer to ensure that all heads of staples lay flush with the surface.
• If staining and varnishing legs, do so prior to attaching seat cushion to frame.