SUPPLIES & TOOLS:
- Dragon Bib Template
- 1yd Cotton Fabric (Main Body)
- 1/2yd Cotton Fabric (Contrast)
- Fusible Interfacing
- Disappearing Ink Pen
- Velcro Square or Snap & Snap Pliers
- Embroidery Floss & Embroidery Needle
- Basic Sewing Supplies
DIRECTIONS:
To find the downloadable patterns click on the "GET PATTERNS" tab above.- Cut out fabric according to the Dragon Bib Template. With the main fabric, cut one of each main bib piece and two of each ear. Set aside the rest of the fabric for the backing (you will trace the assembled front, later, as the template for the backing).
- With the contrast fabric folded, cut out four of the large triangle and three of the small triangle (so that you end up with eight and six), and cut the ear piece as well.
- Use the head pattern to cut out a piece of interfacing. Fuse to the wrong side of the head that will be the top (to stabilize the head for the embroidered facial features). Additionally, cut out two squares of interfacing and fuse them to the wrong sides of the tail tip, to give your bib closure more support.
- Mark dragon facial features with Disappearing Ink Pen. Use embroidery needle and embroidery floss to embroider features on.
- Match the two fabrics for the ears right sides together and sew with a 1/4" seam allowance, leaving the bottom open. Clip the excess material off the tip of the ear, being careful not to cut through the stitching, and flip right side out and press with iron. Press the sides in towards the center and pin in place.
- Match the triangles, right sides together, and sew with 1/4" seam allowance, leaving the bottom of the triangle open. Clip the excess material off the tip of the triangle, being careful not to cut through the stitching, and flip right side out and press with iron. Repeat for all triangles.
- Place ears along the edge of the head, matching the bottom raw edges of the ear with the raw edge of the head, ears should be resting on top of the head with the main fabric side facing up. Pin and baste in place.
- Place four large triangles along the curve of the bottom body piece. Match the raw edge tips of the triangle to the raw edge of the curve, and the triangles should be on top of the bottom body piece; pin and baste in place.
- Place three small triangle along the top neck piece of the bib. Match the raw edge tips of the triangle to the raw edge of the curve; the triangles should be on top of the neck piece. Pin and baste in place.
- Line up the top neck piece with the bottom body piece and then flip the neck piece right sides together over the bottom body piece. Take your time pinning the curves together, letting the fabric curve over your finger and pinning in place 1/2" at a time. Baste the curve edges together with 1/2" seam allowance slowly, pulling the fabric curves flat with your hands as you go. When finished, check that there are no accidental folds in your stitching. If there is a small fold, you may be able to stretch it out by hand through the basting stitch. If you can't, pull out the stitching as far as needed, and re-stretch and pin that part of the curve, baste again. When all looks good, sew in place over the basting stitch. Use scissors to cut small triangles into the seam allowance every 1/2" or so to allow the curved seam to lay flat. Press seam down with iron.
- Place head so that it is right sides together over the flat edge of the body piece. Make sure the nearest triangle is pinned out of the way and sew with a 1/2" seam allowance. Press seam flat with iron.
- Trace sewn front piece onto the wrong side of main body fabric and cut out. Mark a place near the dragon's mouth for your snap or velcro onto this bib back piece, keeping in mind the 1/2" seam allowance. Either sew the velcro in place or set the snap with the snap pliers.
- Place the bib front over the bib back and mark the place on the bib front tail where the corresponding piece of velcro or snap should go. Sew the velcro in place or set the snap.
- Place the bib front and the bib back right sides together, pin, and check to ensure that all the triangle pieces are pinned out of the way of the edge seam. Then, sew all the way around with 1/2" seam allowance, leaving 3" open at the bottom of the bib.
- Turn right side out to check that all looks right, then flip back wrong side out to cut triangles into the seam allowance every 1/2" or so, to allow the curves to lie flat.
- Turn it right side out a final time and press with iron.
- Handstitch the opening closed.
Rated 1 out of
5
by
Lorrie from
Dragon bib--some construction steps left out
There are a few steps missing from the instructions. There are no steps instructing us to sew together A, B, and the unmarked piece, or to sew together C and D. The ears look WAY different from the photo (Ok with me, but an inexperienced stitched may think they did something wrong). The step instructing to "Line up the top neck piece with the bottom body piece..." is confusing. It would be very helpful to note the places where the pieces should align right on the pattern. Also, you can't use the bib front to trace the bib back because the head overlaps the tail. You need to cut two of the head piece (one front and one back) so you can actually make the bib back. I was planning to make three cute bibs for my niece's new baby, but it turned out to be a frustrating project and I only made one.
Date published: 2023-03-24
Rated 1 out of
5
by
Bib27 from
Dragon bib
I have yet to try 1 of Joann’s patterns that makes any sense. I’ve been sewing 40 yrs. Directions & pattern pieces do not match up to Mack sense. Usual end up doing something similar on my own by pic & alt pattern to work
Date published: 2022-04-09