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How To Make A Lion Brand Crayola Off The Hook Girl's Cozy Cardi | JOANN

How To Make A Lion Brand Crayola Off The Hook Girl's Cozy Cardi

By Lion Brand

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ITEM # 262027328P8

How To Make A Lion Brand Crayola Off The Hook Girl's Cozy Cardi

By Lion Brand

ITEM # 262027328P8
Print Description

Crafting Time:
Varies
Skill Level:
Intermediate

DESCRIPTION +

SUPPLIES & TOOLS:

  • LION BRAND® CRAYOLA OFF THE HOOK
  • #109 Cornflower Blue 2 (3, 3) balls
  • LION BRAND stitch markers
  • LION BRAND large-eyed blunt needle
  • A few yards (meters) of smooth yarn for seaming

SIZE:
12-18 months (2 years, 3 years)
Finished Bust 23 (25, 28)"
Finished Length 13 (14, 15)"
Note: Pattern is written for smallest size with changes for larger sizes in parentheses. When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes. To follow pattern more easily, circle all numbers pertaining to your size before beginning.
 

DIRECTIONS:

  NOTES:
Body of Cardi is worked in one piece from the lower back up to the shoulders. Then stitches are bound-off for the back neck and the 2 fronts are worked separately down to the lower front edge.
The sleeves are worked directly onto the body.
When you want to join a new ball of yarn, you’ll need to join when you’re at the end of a row. Pull out one end of the new yarn, leave 2-3 loops hanging, then continue to work back and forth in rows across the loops of the previous row with the new ball.
 
CARDI:
Body
Row 1: Pull out one end of yarn and count out 19 (21, 23) loops.
You’ll be working on just 17 (19, 21) loops to make the body, the other 2 loops are the beginning yarn tail and will be secured later. 
Check to be sure that all loops are facing upwards and that loops aren’t twisted.
 
Now you’ll be working back and forth in rows across the loops.
 
Tip: This yarn is designed so that the loops stay in place – you can set the Cardigan down at any point and the loops won’t come undone!
 
The yarn that’s coming from the yarn ball is called the working yarn.
 
Row 2: Take the working yarn behind first row of 19 (21, 23) loops. Insert thumb and forefinger, from front to back, into 19th (21st, 23rd) loop, grasp 20th (22nd, 24th) loop and draw it through,  *insert thumb and forefinger into next loop of previous row, grasp next loop of working yarn and draw it through; repeat from * until 17 (19, 21) loops have been drawn through and 2 loops remain unworked for beginning tail. 
 
Row 3: Take the working yarn behind previous row of 17 (19, 21) loops. Working back in the opposite direction, insert thumb and forefinger, from front to back, into last loop of previous row, grasp next loop of working yarn and draw it through, *insert thumb and forefinger into next loop of previous row, grasp next loop of working yarn and draw it through; repeat from * until 17 (19, 21) loops have been drawn through. 
 
Repeat Row 3 until piece measures about 13 (14, 15)" from beginning.
 
First Front
Now you will work back and forth over only the first 6 (7, 8) loops to make one of the fronts.
 
Row 1: Take the working yarn behind previous row of 17 (19, 21) loops. Working back in the opposite direction, insert thumb and forefinger, from front to back, into last loop of previous row, grasp next loop of working yarn and draw it through, *insert thumb and forefinger into next loop of previous row, grasp next loop of working yarn and draw it through; repeat from * until 6 (7, 8) loops have been drawn through; place a marker on the next loop to indicate beginning of back neck.
 
Continue working in rows on these 6 (7, 8) loops only until first front measures the same as the back.
 
Bind Off: Working in the same direction as the last row you made, pull the second loop through the first; pull the third loop through the second; pull the fourth through the third – and so on across to the end of the row. Now you’re back at the side with the working yarn.
 
Skip the next few loops of the working yarn and cut the yarn. Snip off the loops from the yarn tail. Just snip the loops off, don't cut through the yarn! Pull the trimmed tail through the last loop and knot.
 
Back Neck
Pull the second loop through the marked back neck loop and remove the marker; then work across and pull the third loop through the second; pull the fourth through the third – and so on until there are only 6 (7, 8) loops remaining (including the last loop just drawn through). These loops are for the second front.
 
Second Front
Pull out one end of yarn from ball and count out 8 (9, 10) loops.
 
Row 1: Continuing in same direction as back neck bind-off, take the working yarn behind the remaining 6 (7, 8) loops, insert thumb and forefinger, from front to back, into last loop just drawn up, skip first 2 loops of working yarn for beginning tail, grasp 3rd loop of working yarn and draw it through, *insert thumb and forefinger into next loop of previous row, grasp next loop of working yarn and draw it through; repeat from * until 6 (7, 8) loops have been drawn through and 2 loops remain unworked for beginning tail.
 
Continue working in rows on these 6 (7, 8) loops only until the second front measures the same as the back.
 
Bind off same as first front.
 
Sleeves 
Lay the body flat with the right side (same side that has always been facing up) facing up. Place markers on side edges of fronts and back, about 4 (4 1/2, 5)" down from back neck. 
 
Pull out one end of yarn from ball and count out 14 (16, 17) loops.
 
Row 1: Take working yarn behind one side edge, between markers, insert thumb and forefinger, from front to back, into side edge of body near first marker, skip first 2 loops of working yarn for beginning tail, grasp 3rd loop of working yarn and draw it through the body, working towards second marker and spacing the loops as evenly as possible, *insert thumb and forefinger into side edge of body, grasp next loop of working yarn and draw it through; repeat from * until 12 (14, 15) loops have been drawn through, the last loop is near the second marker and 2 loops remain unworked for beginning tail.
 
Row 2: Take the working yarn behind previous row of 12 (14, 15) loops. Working back in the opposite direction, insert thumb and forefinger, from front to back, into last loop of previous row, grasp next loop of working yarn and draw it through, *insert thumb and forefinger into next loop of previous row, grasp next loop of working yarn and draw it through; repeat from * until 12 (14, 15) loops have been drawn through. 
 
Repeat Row 2 until sleeve measures about 7 1/2 (9, 10 1/2)".
Bind off same as first front.
 
Repeat along opposite side edge of the body to make the second sleeve.
 
FINISHING:
Fold fronts over back, matching edges. With smooth yarn threaded into blunt needle, sew side edge of front to side edge of back.
Sew sleeve seam.
 
Repeat on opposite side.
Carefully snip the remaining loops from each yarn tail. Just snip the loops off, don’t cut through the yarn! Pull each of the trimmed tails through the loops of the Cardigan to secure them.

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SUPPLIES & TOOLS:


SIZE:
12-18 months (2 years, 3 years)
Finished Bust 23 (25, 28)"
Finished Length 13 (14, 15)"
Note: Pattern is written for smallest size with changes for larger sizes in parentheses. When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes. To follow pattern more easily, circle all numbers pertaining to your size before beginning.
 

DIRECTIONS:

  NOTES:
Body of Cardi is worked in one piece from the lower back up to the shoulders. Then stitches are bound-off for the back neck and the 2 fronts are worked separately down to the lower front edge.
The sleeves are worked directly onto the body.
When you want to join a new ball of yarn, you’ll need to join when you’re at the end of a row. Pull out one end of the new yarn, leave 2-3 loops hanging, then continue to work back and forth in rows across the loops of the previous row with the new ball.
 
CARDI:
Body
Row 1: Pull out one end of yarn and count out 19 (21, 23) loops.
You’ll be working on just 17 (19, 21) loops to make the body, the other 2 loops are the beginning yarn tail and will be secured later. 
Check to be sure that all loops are facing upwards and that loops aren’t twisted.
 
Now you’ll be working back and forth in rows across the loops.
 
Tip: This yarn is designed so that the loops stay in place – you can set the Cardigan down at any point and the loops won’t come undone!
 
The yarn that’s coming from the yarn ball is called the working yarn.
 
Row 2: Take the working yarn behind first row of 19 (21, 23) loops. Insert thumb and forefinger, from front to back, into 19th (21st, 23rd) loop, grasp 20th (22nd, 24th) loop and draw it through,  *insert thumb and forefinger into next loop of previous row, grasp next loop of working yarn and draw it through; repeat from * until 17 (19, 21) loops have been drawn through and 2 loops remain unworked for beginning tail. 
 
Row 3: Take the working yarn behind previous row of 17 (19, 21) loops. Working back in the opposite direction, insert thumb and forefinger, from front to back, into last loop of previous row, grasp next loop of working yarn and draw it through, *insert thumb and forefinger into next loop of previous row, grasp next loop of working yarn and draw it through; repeat from * until 17 (19, 21) loops have been drawn through. 
 
Repeat Row 3 until piece measures about 13 (14, 15)" from beginning.
 
First Front
Now you will work back and forth over only the first 6 (7, 8) loops to make one of the fronts.
 
Row 1: Take the working yarn behind previous row of 17 (19, 21) loops. Working back in the opposite direction, insert thumb and forefinger, from front to back, into last loop of previous row, grasp next loop of working yarn and draw it through, *insert thumb and forefinger into next loop of previous row, grasp next loop of working yarn and draw it through; repeat from * until 6 (7, 8) loops have been drawn through; place a marker on the next loop to indicate beginning of back neck.
 
Continue working in rows on these 6 (7, 8) loops only until first front measures the same as the back.
 
Bind Off: Working in the same direction as the last row you made, pull the second loop through the first; pull the third loop through the second; pull the fourth through the third – and so on across to the end of the row. Now you’re back at the side with the working yarn.
 
Skip the next few loops of the working yarn and cut the yarn. Snip off the loops from the yarn tail. Just snip the loops off, don't cut through the yarn! Pull the trimmed tail through the last loop and knot.
 
Back Neck
Pull the second loop through the marked back neck loop and remove the marker; then work across and pull the third loop through the second; pull the fourth through the third – and so on until there are only 6 (7, 8) loops remaining (including the last loop just drawn through). These loops are for the second front.
 
Second Front
Pull out one end of yarn from ball and count out 8 (9, 10) loops.
 
Row 1: Continuing in same direction as back neck bind-off, take the working yarn behind the remaining 6 (7, 8) loops, insert thumb and forefinger, from front to back, into last loop just drawn up, skip first 2 loops of working yarn for beginning tail, grasp 3rd loop of working yarn and draw it through, *insert thumb and forefinger into next loop of previous row, grasp next loop of working yarn and draw it through; repeat from * until 6 (7, 8) loops have been drawn through and 2 loops remain unworked for beginning tail.
 
Continue working in rows on these 6 (7, 8) loops only until the second front measures the same as the back.
 
Bind off same as first front.
 
Sleeves 
Lay the body flat with the right side (same side that has always been facing up) facing up. Place markers on side edges of fronts and back, about 4 (4 1/2, 5)" down from back neck. 
 
Pull out one end of yarn from ball and count out 14 (16, 17) loops.
 
Row 1: Take working yarn behind one side edge, between markers, insert thumb and forefinger, from front to back, into side edge of body near first marker, skip first 2 loops of working yarn for beginning tail, grasp 3rd loop of working yarn and draw it through the body, working towards second marker and spacing the loops as evenly as possible, *insert thumb and forefinger into side edge of body, grasp next loop of working yarn and draw it through; repeat from * until 12 (14, 15) loops have been drawn through, the last loop is near the second marker and 2 loops remain unworked for beginning tail.
 
Row 2: Take the working yarn behind previous row of 12 (14, 15) loops. Working back in the opposite direction, insert thumb and forefinger, from front to back, into last loop of previous row, grasp next loop of working yarn and draw it through, *insert thumb and forefinger into next loop of previous row, grasp next loop of working yarn and draw it through; repeat from * until 12 (14, 15) loops have been drawn through. 
 
Repeat Row 2 until sleeve measures about 7 1/2 (9, 10 1/2)".
Bind off same as first front.
 
Repeat along opposite side edge of the body to make the second sleeve.
 
FINISHING:
Fold fronts over back, matching edges. With smooth yarn threaded into blunt needle, sew side edge of front to side edge of back.
Sew sleeve seam.
 
Repeat on opposite side.
Carefully snip the remaining loops from each yarn tail. Just snip the loops off, don’t cut through the yarn! Pull each of the trimmed tails through the loops of the Cardigan to secure them.