SUPPLIES & TOOLS:
Tips for working with very stretchy knit fabric:
- Simplicity Pattern 1030
- Sewing machine
- Basic sewing supplies
- Refer to pattern jacket for fabric and notions
The Cosplay Matte Solid Fabric was the choice for the Avenger’s costume. The fabric is 75% nylon and 25% spandex, a very stretchy blend that has good recovery. That fabric along with other performance fabrics such as dance and swimwear can be challenging the first time. The following will be helpful:
Select a pattern that is designed for stretch knit fabrics. See the stretch guide on the back of the envelope for the amount of stretch recommended for the garment.
- Fabric preparation: Wash and dry the fabric before cutting following the direction on the bolt end. Use a cool dryer setting. If there are trims used, wash them as well.
- Straight pins: Ballpoint pin with a fine shaft
- Cutting tools: Rotary cutter and mat or serrated scissors
- Marking tools: Water or air erasable markers, chalk or chalk wheel
- Fabric grain: Even though the fabric stretches in all directions it is important to align the fabric grain with the grain marking on the pattern.
- Thread: All purpose polyester thread has some give and is strong
- Machine needles: Stretch needle size 11/75 is shaped to prevent skipped stitches which often occur in very stretchy fabric.
- Machine settings: Zig zag stitch with a stitch width of 1 to 2mm and a stitch length about .5 to 1mm. The narrow zig zag appears as a straight stitch but allows seams to stretch.
- Machine feet: Zigzag foot or walking/even feed foot
- Edge finish: The fabric generally does not ravel so an edge finish is not necessary unless it is an exposed edge, then finish with an overlock stitch, binding, hem as desired.
- Pressing: Many of the fabrics are nylon blends which have a low melting temperature, adjust the temperature of the iron when pressing. Test a fabric scrap or location on the garment that will not be seen to press before pressing the whole garment. Using a press cloth is always a good choice.
- Cleaning: Follow the care recommendations on the end of the bolt for best results.