Lion Brand Basic Stitch Anti-Pilling Alida Place Skirt

by Lion Brand |

Item # 522117185P203
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Discounted Price $4.87 Old Price $6.49

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SUPPLIES & TOOLS:
  • LION BRAND® BASIC STITCH® ANTI-PILLING (Art. #202)
  • #121 Almond 4 (4, 5, 5, 6, 6) balls
  • LION BRAND® knitting needles size 7 (4.5 mm)
  • LION BRAND® stitch markers
  • LION BRAND® large-eyed blunt needle

  • SIZE:
  • S (M, L,1X, 2X, 3X)
  • Finished Waist: About 30 (33, 37, 40, 44, 48)"
  • Finished Hip: About 36 1/2 (40 1/2, 44, 48 1/2, 52, 55 1/2)"
  • Finished Length: About 26 (26, 26 1/2, 27, 27 1/2, 27 1/2)"
  • Note: Pattern is written for smallest size with changes for larger sizes in parentheses. When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes. To follow pattern more easily, circle all numbers pertaining to your size before beginning.

  • GAUGE:
  • 18 sts + 28 rows = about 4" in Stitch Pattern #1.
  • 22 sts + 28 rows = about 4" in Stitch Pattern #2.
  • BE SURE TO CHECK YOUR GAUGE.
DIRECTIONS:
STITCH EXPLANATIONS:
M1 (make 1) An increase worked by lifting the horizontal strand lying between needles and placing it onto the left needle. Knit this new stitch through the back loop - 1 st increased.
ssk (slip, slip, knit) Slip next 2 sts as if to knit, one at a time, to right needle; insert left needle into fronts of these 2 sts and knit them tog - 1 st decreased.
PATTERN STITCHES:
K1, p1 Rib (worked over an odd number of sts)
Row 1 (RS): P1, *k1, p1; rep from * to end.
Row 2: K the knit sts and p the purl sts.
Rep Row 2 for K1, p1 Rib.
Stitch Pattern #1 (worked over a multiple of 4 sts + 1 additional st)
Row 1 (RS): Knit.
Row 2: * P1, k1; rep from * to last st, p1.
Row 3: Knit.
Row 4: * P1, k3; rep from * to last st, p1.
Rep Rows 1-4 for Stitch Pattern #1.
Stitch Pattern #2 (worked over an odd number of sts)
Row 1 (RS): * P1, sl 1 wyib; rep from * to last st, p1.
Row 2: * K1, p1; rep from * to last st, k1.
Rep Rows 1 and 2 for Stitch Pattern #2.
TECHNIQUE EXPLANATIONS:
Tubular Bind-Off
Tubular Bind-Off is a sewn bind-off that produces a stretchy edge that looks like K1, p1 Rib.
1. Cut the yarn, leaving a tail at least 2-3 times longer than the width of the piece. Thread the tail onto a yarn needle. Place the knitting needle holding the stitches in your left hand.
2. Insert the yarn needle, as if to knit, into the first stitch on the knitting needle and draw the yarn all the way through. Drop the first stitch from the knitting needle. Note: If first stitch is a purl, insert yarn needle into first 2 stitches, draw yarn through and drop both stitches from knitting needle.
3. Insert the yarn needle, as if to purl, into the 2nd stitch on the knitting needle and draw the yarn all the way through. Do not drop any stitches from the knitting needle.
4. Insert the yarn needle, as if to purl, into the first stitch on the knitting needle and draw the yarn all the way through. Drop the first stitch from the knitting needle.
5. Insert the yarn needle from the back to the front between the first 2 stitches on the knitting needle and draw the yarn all the way through.
6. Insert the yarn needle, as if to knit, into the 2nd stitch and draw the yarn all the way through to the back of the work.
7. Repeat steps #2-#6 until there are only 1 or 2 stitches remaining on the knitting needle. Repeat step #2. If there is still a stitch remaining on the knitting needle, insert the yarn needle as if to purl, draw through and drop the stitch from the needle.
Tubular Cast-On
This Tubular Cast-On is a long tail cast-on that produces a neat, rounded, and stretchy edge that works well with K1, p1 Rib.
To Begin: Pull out a length of yarn that is 3 or 4 times the width of the piece you are about to knit (see schematic for measurements). Tie a slip knot and place it on the needle. Hold the needle in your right hand and grasp the working yarn with your left hand as for a long tail cast on. The slip knot counts as the first stitch. As you cast on, use the fingers of your right hand to hold the stitches on the right needle so that they do not slide around the needle.
Moving the needle tip away from you, take it over the yarn coming off your index finger. Moving the needle tip towards you, take it under the yarn coming off your index finger and over the yarn coming off your thumb. Moving the needle away from you, bring it under the yarn coming off your thumb and draw that yarn under the yarn coming off your index finger, forming a loop on the needle. Draw the loop up so that it is above both yarns. Gently tighten the yarns. You have cast-on one purl stitch.
Moving the needle tip towards you, bring it over the yarn coming off your thumb. Moving the needle tip away from you, take it under the yarn coming off your thumb and over the yarn coming off your index finger. Moving the needle tip towards you, bring it under the yarn coming off your index finger and draw that yarn under the yarn coming off your thumb, forming a loop on the needle. Draw the loop up so that it is above both yarns. Gently tighten the yarns. You have cast-on one knit stitch.
Repeat steps #1 and #2 until you have cast on the desired number of stitches. Take care to keep the tension of the last cast on stitch snug. To secure the last cast on stitch, twist the tail around the working yarn one or two times. If you are casting on an even number of stitches you will end with a step #1 (having just cast-on a purl stitch). If you are casting on an odd number of stitches you will end with a step #2 (having just cast-on a knit stitch).
Turn the work and work the following foundation rows.
Foundation Row 1: Slip the purl sts wyif, k the knit sts through the back loop.
Foundation Row 2: K the knit sts, sl the purl sts wyif.
Proceed with K1, p1 Rib as instructed.
NOTES:
Skirt is made from 2 identical pieces: Back and Front.
Each piece is worked from lower edge upwards.
With yarn in front (wyif) refers to the side of the work facing you as you work the row; with yarn in back (wyib) refers to the side of the work that is away from you as you work the row. To move yarn from front to back or back to front, bring yarn between needles. Take care not to wrap yarn over a needle, this could create an additional st.
When you see 'work in pattern as established' in the instructions, this means to work the next row of the pattern(s), lining up sts as in previous rows.
When you see work 'even' in the instructions, this means to continue on in the pattern st you have established without changing the st count by increasing, decreasing, or binding off.
BACK:
Using Tubular Cast-On technique, cast on 75 (83, 91, 99, 107, 115) sts.
Lower Ribbing
Beg with Row 1 of pattern, work in K1, p1 Rib for 4 rows.
Row 1 (RS): Work Row 1 of Stitch Pattern #2 over first 15 (15, 15, 17, 17, 19) sts, place marker (pm), work Row 1 of Stitch Pattern #1 to last 15 (15, 15, 17, 17, 19) sts, pm, work Row 1 of Stitch Pattern #2 to end of row.
Row 2: Work next row of Stitch Pattern #2 to marker, slip marker (sm), work next row of Stitch Pattern #1 to next marker, sm, work next row of Stitch Pattern #2 to end of row.
Continue in pattern as established, slipping markers as you come to them, for 18 more rows.
Increase Row (RS): Work in Stitch Pattern #2 as established to first marker, M1, sm, work in Stitch Pattern #1 as established to next marker, sm, M1, work in Stitch Pattern #2 to end of row - you will have 77 (85, 93, 101, 109, 117) sts in this row
Work even in pattern as established, slipping markers as you come to them, for 15 (15, 15, 11, 11, 11) rows.
Rep Increase Row - 79 (87, 95, 103, 111, 119) sts.
Rep last 16 (16, 16, 12, 12, 12) rows for 6 (6, 6, 8, 8, 8) more times, working all new sts into Stitch Pattern #2 as established - 91 (99, 107, 119, 127, 135) sts when all increases have been completed.
Work even in pattern as established until piece measures about 21 1/2 (21 1/2, 22, 22, 22 1/2, 22 1/2)" cm from beg, end with a WS row as the last row you work.
Decrease Row (RS): Work in Stitch Pattern #2 as established to 2 sts before first marker, ssk, sm, work in Stitch Pattern #1 as established to next marker, sm, k2tog, work in Stitch Pattern #2 to end of row - 89 (97, 105, 117, 125, 133) sts.
Work even in pattern as established for 1 row.
Rep last 2 rows for 10 (10, 10, 12, 12, 12) more times - 69 (77, 85, 93, 101, 109) sts when all decreases have been completed.
Next Row (RS): P1, (k1 tbl, p1) to 1 st before first marker, ssk and remove marker, p1, (k1 tbl, p1) to 1 st before next marker, k2tog and remove marker, p1, (k1 tbl, p1) to end of row - 67 (75, 83, 91, 99, 107) sts.
Next 7 Rows: K the knit sts through the back loop and p the purl sts.
Bind off using Tubular Bind-Off technique.
FRONT:
Make same as Back.
FINISHING:
Sew side seams leaving 4" at lower edge unsewn for side slits.
Weave in ends. Block to measurements.

ABBREVIATIONS:
beg = begin(ning)(s)
k = knit
k2tog = knit 2 stitches together
p = purl
rep = repeat
rnd(s) = round(s)
RS = right side
sl = slip
st(s) = stitch(es)
tbl = through back loop
WS = wrong side

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