Lion Brand Truboo Queen's Gambit Sweater

SUPPLIES & TOOLS:

• Lion Brand TRUBOO
• Slate 5 (6, 8) balls (A)
• White 1 (1, 2) ball(s) (B)
• Lion Brand knitting needles size 6 (4 mm)
• Lion Brand stitch markers
• Lion Brand stitch holders
• Lion Brand large-eyed blunt needle
• Circular needle size 6 (4 mm), 16 in. (40.5 cm) long (for neck ribbing)


• SIZE:
• XS/S (M, L/1X)
• Finished Bust About 34 (42, 51) in. (86.5 (106.5, 129.5) cm)
• Finished Length About 23 1/2 (24 1/2, 25 1/2) in. (59.5 (62, 66) cm)
• Note: Pattern is written for smallest size with changes for larger sizes in parentheses. When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes. To follow pattern more easily, circle all numbers pertaining to your size before beginning.


• GAUGE:
• 23 sts + 26 rows = about 4 in. (10 cm) in St st (k on RS, p on WS).
• BE SURE TO CHECK YOUR GAUGE.

DIRECTIONS:
To find the downloadable patterns click on the "GET PATTERNS" tab above.

STITCH EXPLANATION
M1 (make 1) An increase worked by lifting the horizontal strand lying between needles and placing it onto the left needle. Knit this new stitch through the back loop - 1 st increased.

PATTERN STITCH
K2, p2 Rib (multiple of 4 sts + 2 additional sts)
Row 1: K2, *p2, k2; rep from * to end of row.
Row 2: K the knit sts and p the purl sts.
Rep Row 2 for K2, p2 Rib.

NOTES:
Sweater is worked in 4 pieces: Back, Front, and 2 Sleeves.
All pieces are worked from lower edge upwards in St st (k on RS, p on WS).
Yarn color is changed in upper sections of sweater, following charts, to create chess piece patterns. Read RS rows of charts from right to left and WS rows from left to right.
Charted patterns are worked in Fair Isle colorwork using 2 colors per row. Carry color not in use across WS of work. If carrying color across 5 or more sts, twist yarns on WS to prevent overly long strands (floats) on the WS.
Straight needles are used for all but the neck ribbing. For largest size, you may prefer to use a long circular needle to accommodate the number of sts.
When you see 'as established' in the instructions, this means to continue in the current pattern st, lining up sts as in previous rows.
Selvedge sts are worked at beg and end of rows. These sts will disappear into the seams of the sweater.

BACK:
With straight needles and A, cast on 98 (122, 146) sts.
Work in K2, p2 Rib until piece measures about 2 in. (5 cm) from beg.
Work in St st (k on RS, p on WS) until piece measures about 11 12 (12 1/2, 13 1/2) in. (29 (32, 34.5) cm) from beg, end with a WS row as the last row you work.

Charted Chess Piece Patterns
Chart #1
Row 1 (RS): Sl 1 (selvedge st), work in St st and change yarn color following Row 1 of Chart #1 to last st, p1 (selvedge st).
Continue in St st, changing yarn color following Chart #1 and slipping the first st and purling the last st (for selvedges), until all 6 rows of chart have been completed.

Chart #2
Row 1 (RS): Sl 1; with B, work in St st over next 8 (0, 2) sts, place marker (pm), work Row 1 of Chart #2 to last 9 (1, 3) sts, pm; with B, work in St st to last st, p1. Note: When you see '0' in an instruction, this means that for that size, you should not work any sts, just skip to the next part of the instruction.
Continue in St st, slipping markers as you come to them, changing yarn color following Chart #2 between markers and slipping the first st and purling the last st (for selvedges), until all 25 rows of chart have been completed.
Remove markers.

Chart #3
Row 1 (WS): Sl 1, work in St st and change yarn color following Row 1 of Chart #3 to last st, p1.
Continue in St st, changing yarn color following Chart #3 and slipping the first st and purling the last st (for selvedges), until all 4 rows of chart have been completed.

Chart #4
Row 1 (WS): Sl 1; with B, work in St st over next 8 (0, 2) sts, pm, work Row 1 of Chart #4 to last 9 (1, 3) sts, pm; with B, work in St st to last st, p1.
Continue in St st, slipping markers as you come to them, changing yarn color following Chart #4 between markers and slipping the first st and purling the last st (for selvedges), until all 20 rows of chart have been completed.

Chart #5
Row 1 (WS): Sl 1, work in St st and change yarn color following Row 1 of Chart #5 to last st, p1.
Row 2: Sl 1, work in St st and change yarn color following Row 2 of Chart #5, to last st, p1.

Chart #6
Row 1 (WS): Sl 1, work in St st and change yarn color following Row 1 of Chart #6 to last st, p1. Note: For sizes XS/S (L/1X), work 6 (9) 16-st reps of the Chart. For size M, work 7 16-st reps then rep the first 8 sts once more.
Continue in St st, changing yarn color following Chart #6 and slipping the first st and purling the last st (for selvedges), until all 16 rows of chart have been completed.

Cut A, continue with B only.
With B, knit 1 row.

Shape Neck and Shoulders
Place markers on each side of center 42 (44, 46) sts for back neck.
Row 1 (RS): Bind off 8 (11, 16) sts, k to first marker for right shoulder; join a 2nd ball of yarn and bind off center 42 (44, 46) sts between markers and remove markers, k to end of row for left shoulder - you will have 20 (28, 34) sts for right shoulder and 28 (39, 50) sts for left shoulder.
You will now work both shoulders AT THE SAME TIME with separate balls of yarn.
Row 2: On left shoulder, bind off 8 (11, 16) sts, p to end of side; on right shoulder, bind off 2 sts, p to end of side - 18 (26, 32) sts for right shoulder and 20 (28, 34) sts for left shoulder.
Row 3: On right shoulder, bind off 9 (13, 16) sts, k to end of side; on left shoulder, bind off 2 sts, k to end of side - 9 (13, 16) sts for right shoulder and 18 (26, 32) sts for left shoulder.
Row 4: On left shoulder, bind off 9 (13, 16) sts, p to end of side; on right shoulder, p to end of side - 9 (13, 16) sts for each shoulder.
Row 5: On right shoulder, bind off rem 9 (13, 16) sts; on left shoulder, k to end of side.
Bind off rem 9 (13, 16) left shoulder sts.

FRONT:
Work same as Back until Chart #5 is complete.

Shape Neck and Shoulders
Place markers on each side of center 24 (26, 28) sts for front neck.
Row 1 (WS): Sl 1, work in St st and change yarn color following Row 1 of Chart # 6 to first marker for right side; join a 2nd ball of yarn and bind off center 24 (26, 28) sts between markers and remove markers, continue in St st and continue changing yarn color following Row 1 of Chart # 6 to last st, p1 for left side - you will have 37 (48, 59) sts for each side. Note: As you bind off the center sts, skip that same number of sts of the Chart, so that the chess pieces on the Front line up with the chess pieces on the Back.
You will now work both sides AT THE SAME TIME with separate balls of yarn.
Row 2: On left side, sl 1, work in pattern as established to end of side; on right side, bind off 3 sts, work in pattern as established to last st, p1.
Row 3: On right side, sl 1, work in pattern as established to end of side; on left side, bind off 3 sts, work in pattern as established to last st, p1 - 34 (45, 56) sts for each side.
Row 4: On left side, sl 1, work in pattern as established to end of side; on right side, bind off 2 sts, work in pattern as established to last st, p1.
Row 5: On right side, sl 1, work in pattern as established to end of side; on left side, bind off 2 sts, work in pattern as established to last st, p1 - 32 (43, 54) sts for each side.
Rows 6 and 7: Rep Rows 4 and 5 - 30 (41, 52) sts for each side in Row 7.
Row 8: On left side, sl 1, work in pattern as established to end of side; on right side, bind off 1 st, work in pattern as established to last st, p1.
Row 9: On right side, sl 1, work in pattern as established to end of side; on left side, bind off 1 st, work in pattern as established to last st, p1 - 29 (40, 51) sts for each side.
Rows 10-15: Rep Rows 8 and 9 for 3 more times - 26 (37, 48) sts in Row 15.
Row 16: One left side, sl 1, work in pattern as established to end of side; on right side, work in pattern as established to last st, p1.
Cut A and continue with B only.
With B, knit 1 row.

Shape Shoulders
Row 1 (RS): On left side, bind off 8 (11, 16) sts, k to end of side; on right side, k to end of side - 18 (26, 32) sts for left side and 26 (37, 48) sts for right side.
Row 2: On right side, bind off 8 (11, 16) sts, p to end of side; on left side, p to end of side - 18 (26, 32) sts for each side.
Row 3: On left side, bind off 9 (13, 16) sts, k to end of side; on right side, k to end of side.
Row 4: On right side, bind off 9 (13, 16) sts, p to end of side; on left side, p to end of side - 9 (13, 16) sts for each side.
Row 5: On left side, bind off rem 9 (13, 16) sts; on right side, k to end of side.
Bind off rem 9 (13, 16) right side sts.

SLEEVES (make 2):
With straight needles and A, cast on 46 (50, 54) sts.
Work in K2, p2 Rib until piece measures about 2 in. (5 cm) from beg.
Work in St st for 7 (5, 3) rows.
Increase Row (RS): K2, M1, k to last 2 sts, M1, k2 - 48 (52, 56) sts.
Rep last 8 (6, 4) rows for 14 (16, 20) more times - 76 (84, 96) sts.
Work even in St st until piece measures about 19 (18, 17) in. (48.5 (45.5, 43) cm) from beg.

Shape Cap
Next 24 (26, 30) Rows: Bind off 3 sts, work in St st to end of row.
Bind off rem 4 (6, 6) sts.

FINISHING:
Sew shoulder seams.

Neckband
From RS with circular needle and A, beg at either shoulder seam, pick up and k120 (124, 124) sts spaced evenly around neck edge.
Place marker for beg of rnd. Join by working the first st on left hand needle with the working yarn from the right hand needle.
Rnds 1-9: *K2, p2; rep from * around.
Bind off in rib.
Place markers on side edges of Back and Front about 7 (8, 9) in. (19 (21.5, 24) cm) down from shoulder seams.
Sew Sleeves between markers.
Sew side and Sleeve seams.
Block Sweater to measurements.
Weave in ends.


ABBREVIATIONS:
beg = begin(ning)
k = knit
p = purl
rem = remain(ing)(s)
rep(s) = repeat(s)
rnd(s) = round(s)
RS = right side
st(s) = stitch(es)
sl = slip
St st = Stockinette stitch
WS = wrong side