*To Calculate Fabric:
1. Waist Measurement: __________
2. Skirt Measurement: ( waist x 2)_X length of skirt
3. Ruffles: (skirt x 2)_X 2-3/4”
If using a 48” fabric, it will take 2 strips of fabric to create 1 ruffle.
SA = seam allowance, RS = right sides, WS = wrong sides
1. Following the fabric calculation above, cut the skirt fabric, ruffle strips and elastic waistband according to measurements.
2. For the skirt, serge or zigzag stitch the two short sides, and the top long edge of the skirt fabric. The bottom long edges will get folded into the hem.
3. Stitch the two sides with the RS together and a 1/2” seam allowance. Press the seam open. This will be the back seam. Using the hem gauge, press and hem with a 1/4” double-fold.
4. To create the ruffles, stitch the matching ruffle strip sets together, creating a finished loop. Fold, press and stitch the top long edge with an 1/8” topstitch. Press and hem with a 1/4” double-fold.
5. Then using about a 10 mm long stitch on the machine, do a running stitch 1/2” from the top fold. TIP: Use a contrasting color in the bobbin; this will make it easier to see which thread to pull for the ruffles. Repeat for all the ruffle strips.
6. To help position the ruffles evenly on the skirt, mark three horizontal lines across the front and back of the skirt.
7. Line 1: 2-1/4” from the bottom of the skirt.
8. Line 2: 3-1/2” from the bottom.
9. Line 3: 5” from the bottom.
10. Insert straight pins into the waist of the skirt at every quarter mark. That’s one centered on the front and back, and the two sides. Now insert another pin between each of those. That should be eight pins total. Repeat on the ruffle.
11. To assemble, pin the bottom ruffle to the skirt by aligning all 16 pins. Position the top of the ruffle on the 2-1/4” drawn line.
12. To ruffle, gently pull the bobbin threads on the ruffle and guide the ruffles into position.
13. Stitch the ruffle to the skirt. Remove the running stitch. Repeat for all ruffle layers.
14. To create the elastic waistband, set the machine to a zigzag stitch that is 1” wide and 1-1/2” long. Stitch the ends together with a 1/2” SA.
15. Change the zigzag stitch to 2” wide and 2-1/2” long. Fold the SA flat, and zigzag stitch it flat open on the inside.
16. Repeat the quarter mark pinning process from step 8, and pin the waistband to the top of the skirt.
17. Zigzag stitch the waistband to the skirt, while stretching the elastic so that the fabric is flat between the pinned marks. When released, it will make an even gather. Test a scrap of the elastic first, to ensure a good zigzag setting, and the elastic does not pucker.