Night Flyer Costume

SUPPLIES & TOOLS:

• COSTUME
• Simplicity 9254, all views
• Follow yardage and instructions on pattern envelope and insert
• Use 1/2yd less of Velcro as stated on pattern because of change of pattern
• Kraft paper
• Pencil
• Ruler
• Basic sewing supplies


• MASK
• Cardstock for printer
• Scissors
• Ruler
• Pencil
• X-Acto® Knife, #11 blades
• Bandsaw
• Sandpaper, 100 grit
• Heat Gun
• Thread, black
• Needle
• Pins
• Rotary tool, drum sander bit, fine grit
• Mod Podge®, Matte
• Paint, Multi-Surface Satin Acrylic, 2oz, Black
• Contact Cement
• Quick Grip adhesive, to attach Velcro® to foam
• Velcro®, black, 1"x approximately 3"
• Brushes: glue brush and small flat disposable brush for Contact Cement 1" foam brushes, 2
• Palette
• EVA foam sheet, 24"x 40", 5mm
• Optional: Head form (to hold the mask during coatings)
• Compass or other sharp point tool (to mark stitching locations)

DIRECTIONS:

1. Follow the pattern instructions for all views. We adjusted this pattern to look more like a vigilante superhero. Follow the additional pattern by tracing in onto pattern paper.
2. The tabs at the bodice bottom remain the same as stated on pattern instructions; however, omit the Velcro in the back bodice and on the inside of belt, keeping Velcro only for the closing on the side.

1. Print pattern on cardstock. Cut out pattern pieces using an X-Acto knife. Transfer patterns to EVA foam sheet with a pencil. Use a bandsaw to cut foam. Use an X-Acto knife to cut eye holes. Keep the blade as vertical as possible when cutting. This will ensure a clean, strong bond between the foam parts.
2. Heat all edges and surfaces of foam with a heat gun. This will close the foam pores and allow the foam to accept finishes. Keep the heat gun approximately 2" from the foam and direct the heat in a circular fashion. The foam will change from a matte finish to a slightly gloss finish when enough heat is applied. While the surfaces are warm, pull from the center to sides on the center of the nose to start a bend. Curve the side panels in reverse from one another pulling the foam from the center to curve enough to close the back dart. Lay out the center panels as in the parts diagram. Curve each center panel by pulling from the center to each of the sides and from the front to the back enough to close the darts.
3. Apply Contact Cement to the inside edges of darts on the center panels. Glue one or two darts at a time. Coat all edges completely and wipe off any excess glue immediately. Let dry until the adhesive is slightly tacky, not glossy. Start pulling darts together at the points of the cuts. Line up the outer flat surfaces. Make sure that the outer corners match. The foam may be slightly stretched to ensure that the corners meet. Press joints together. The foam center panel may be curved the opposite direction from the final curve to help press the outer surface edges together.
4. Attach a center panel A/B to center panel C matching the corners of the short edges. See pattern. Repeat.
5. Attach the two center panels together from the front to 3/4" below the back bottom dart (this will make it easy to put the mask on). Match front corners, dart seams and bottom corners. The center panels may be curved the opposite direction from the final curve to help press the outer edges together.
6. Attach two layers of ear shape foam to the insides of the side panels. Lay one ear on the inside of the ear area on one side panel. Mark the location of the bottom edge of the ear on the side panel. Apply glue to the marked area and to the side of one ear to be layered. Match sides and tips of ears. Press. Layer second ear foam onto ear on inside side of side panel matching all edges. Reverse and repeat for opposite side panel.
7. Attach side panels to center panel. Dry fit side to center panel matching side back and front corners with center front and back corners. The edges of the panels will be glued together. The underside of the ears will be set on the top surface of the center panels Use straight pins set at an angle to temporarily hold a side to the center panel. Mark the location of the base of the ears onto the surface of the center panel (area to be glued). Glue one section together at a time allowing the glue to set before moving on to the next section. Start with the front sections, move on to the ear sections and finally the length of edges behind the ears. Set aside.
8. Attach upper eye to the lower eye along the edges on either side of the eye hole. Match corners. Repeat.
9. Attach center nose to side nose parts along the edges. Match bottom corners. The top edge of the nose will set above the top points of the side nose parts.
10. Attach the nose to the eyes along the edges. Match the bottom corner of the lower eye with the outer bottom corner of the side nose. Repeat. Let set.
11. Attach the eyes and nose to the cowl (sides and center). Match the back of the edge of the eyes/nose with the front of the edge of the sides and center panels. The outer edges of the eyes/nose will be visible when glued. Center the nose on the seam between the center panels. Set the seam between the upper and lower eye at the corner 1 3/8" back from the front curve of the side panel. Use pins to temporarily hold the parts in place. The nose will be quite flat and will push the sides of the cowl out. Glue one side at a time starting at the center of the nose. Let set.
12. Use a rotary tool with a drum sander bit to round over the sides of the ears and to soften the edges at the brows and the sides of the eye panel. Use a heat gun to soften rough edges created by the rotary tool.
13. Add the nose inset to the back of the bottom of the nose. Glue the edges of the nose inset to the back surface of the nose center and sides. Set the nose inset slightly up from the bottom edge of the nose. Let set.
14. Add stitching lines. See pattern for stitching locations. Use a pencil or compass point to mark into foam 1/8" away from either side of a seam at 1/4" intervals for stitches. Use a double threaded needle starting from the back of the mask. Loop the thread through the mark directly across the seam line and feed the thread through the original knot to secure the first stitch. Continue down the seam pulling each stitch tight. Knot the end of the thread through the previous stitch on the back of the mask then bury the tail into the foam.
15. Try on the cowl. Pattern suggests a 3" L for Velcro. Determine the most comfortable overlap for the chin strap at the front of the sides. Place a light pencil mark to note the location. Cut Velcro 1/4" less than the overlap length. Set the fuzzy side of Velcro on the back of the top foam strap 1/8" back from the end of the strap. Set the hook side of Velcro on the front of the bottom foam strap flush with the end of the strap. Draw a light pencil line around the Velcro. Place Quick Grip adhesive completely covering the marked areas on the foam and immediately press Velcro in place. Let set.
16. Use a foam brush to apply a thin layer of Mod Podge to all edges and surfaces of the mask. Tap into the stitching areas to completely cover. Pull out any thick areas of coating. Let dry overnight.
17. Use a small piece of sandpaper to soften any rough edges. Blow away any debris.
18. Use a foam brush to apply black paint to all areas coated with Mod Podge. Slight directional lines may be visible after the paint has dried. Gently brush paint: from the top of the nose to the tip, from the nose out to the sides of the eyes, from the front to the back of the center panel, from the base to the tip on the insides of the ears and from the tips of the ears down on the sides. Let dry eight hours. Gently sand edges to soften. Apply a second coat of black paint. Let dry.

JOANN HACKS:

• For costume:, use #14 sewing needle and Teflon foot while sewing vinyl fabric, overcasting seams together treating as one.