Oasis Anti-Pill Fleece Bedroom

SUPPLIES & TOOLS:

• Various anti-pill fleece
• Coordinating thread
• Fabric shears
• One pack of piping trim
• 1 yard grip stop fabric (like on feet of footed pajamas)
• Sewing machine
• Sewing notions
• Optional – rotary cutter, clear ruler, and self-healing mat

FLEECE FRINGE BLANKET

DIRECTIONS:

1. Remove selvage (factory) edges to use full width of fabric (This palm leaf fabric was about 59" wide after trimming off the selvage). Cut length to 90".
2. Starting at a corner, roll one edge under a quarter inch then fold in another 1" & pin. Make the other side of the corner match to create a cleanly folded corner & pin in place to secure until you make it back around. If bulky, cut off some of the fabric you are folding inside.
3. Starting at inside of your corner, sew along inner folded edge and down along the side. When you are about 6" away from the next corner, pause sewing to fold & pin the corner in the same way as step 2.
4. Continue around the blanket until you are back to your first corner. Remember to backstitch to secure your beginning stitches.
5. Also sew each corner from the fleece edge to the stitch line (remembering to backstitch) to keep the corner folds at a 45 degree angle.

JOANN HACKS:

• If you are nervous about keeping the first 1/4" fold consistent, start by sewing that amount folded in. Sew close to the folded edge around the fabric. Then as you do your 1" in fold, you will cover your original stitch line with the next stitches.

WALL HANGING WITH FRINGE

DIRECTIONS:

1. Cut your sun fabric 22"x 34.5"
2. Fold a long side to the back 1". Sew along raw edge, remembering to backstitch at the beginning and end. Do the same to other long edge, then bottom.
3. Decide where you want your fringe trim to go on the panel. This one was folded in half both directions (taking into account 1.5" extra at the top to create a rod pocket) to find the center & where the points needed to go. Mark design lines with pins.
4. Create fringe trim by cutting a long strip of green fleece 2.5" wide. About every 3/8", make a cut most of the way through the strip. This is much easier & quicker to do with a rotary cutter, self-healing mat and clear ruler.
5. Sew the top of your fringe along pin lines, near the top edge of the trim. I made the end/beginning join where the upper line of fringe would cover it.
6. For the inner square, make 2" long fringe trim with the cuts 1/4" apart.
7. Sew on shorter trim to inner square.
8. Fold the top edge 1.5" toward the back. Sew 1/4" from edge to make a rod pocket for hanging on the wall.

JOANN HACKS:

• There are clear rulers for rotary cutters that have slits in them for cutting consistently sized strips. This makes fringe making much easier.
• When you sew the bottom hem, fold the corner of the seam allowance under a bit so it won’t be visibly sticking out from the front.

FLEECE RUG/MAT

DIRECTIONS:

1. Cut your fleece 28"x 37"
2. Cut grip fabric 24"x 37"
3. Sew the two pieces, facing each other, together with a 1/2" seam along the long edges.
4. The fleece piece will be bigger than your non-slip backing by about 2". Flip the tube so the good sides are facing out. Allow the fleece to fold to the back 1" on each side.
5. Create fringe for the edges by cutting 3" strips as long as the short edge of your rug.
6. About every 3/8", make a cut most of the way through the strip. This is much easier & quicker to do with a rotary cutter, self-healing mat and clear ruler.
7. Lay your first fringe strip along the front of the short edge of your mat so the edges line up and fringe is inward, overlapping rug body. Sew all layers together 1/2" in from the edge.
8. Flip to the back. With the fringe brushed outward now, push your seam allowance toward the back of the body of the rug. Sew the seam allowance down to the body along the raw edge to encase the other layers.

JOANN HACKS:

• There are clear rulers for rotary cutters that have slits in them for cutting consistently sized strips. This makes fringe making much easier.
• The fringe strip might stretch out lengthwise. Fleece is a knit, so that’s okay. When you get to the end just trim it to the correct length.

TASSEL PILLOW 16" x 16"

DIRECTIONS:

1. Cut your fleece front 16.25" x 16.25" & 2 backs 16.25" x 13"
2. Cut 4 pieces of tassel fabric 5" tall by 4" wide. Also, cut 4 strips about 3" long & 1/4" wide from along the selvage edge of the fabric. Near the factory edge is stronger than the body of the fabric.
3. Create fringe by cutting most of the way through the height of your tassel pieces, about every 3/8" apart to make fringe. This is much easier & quicker to do with a rotary cutter, self-healing mat and clear ruler.
4. Securely sew the end of one of your thin strips to an upper corner of your tassel piece.
5. Starting with that edge, roll the tassel up tightly.
6. Carefully slide this rolled top under your machine foot. Keep your foot far away from the pedal whenever your fingers are very near the machine foot & needle. Sew a few stitches along the end to secure it.
7. On your two back pieces, fold a 16.25" long edge in 1" towards the back. Sew down along the raw edge.
8. Tack a loose end of the strip inside the tassels to each corner of the front piece. With the fringe of the tassel over the body of the front, pin down the fringe so it won’t get caught when you sew the side seams.
9. Line the unsewn 16.25" sides of the back pieces up to the front piece (good sides inward) on opposite sides. Then line up the top & bottom edges. The sewn edges will overlap in the back to create an envelope opening.
10. Sew around the edges 1/2" in. Instead of sewing all the way into the corner, stop a few stitches before and create a small diagonal instead. This will keep the corners from sticking out pointy when on the pillow form.
11. Flip right side out through the envelope hole, remove tassel pins, and insert pillow form.

JOANN HACKS:

• There are clear rulers for rotary cutters that have slits in them for cutting consistently sized strips. This makes tassel making much easier.
• Trim the seam allowance from the corners before flipping to remove some bulk.

FRINGE PILLOW 18" x 18"

DIRECTIONS:

1. Cut your fleece front 18.25"x 18.25" & 2 backs 18.25"x 13"
2. Cut a long strip of trim fabric 3.5"
3. Make this strip into fringe by cutting most of the way through the 3.5", about every 3/8" apart. This is much easier & quicker to do with a rotary cutter, self-healing mat and clear ruler.
4. Line the top edge of your fringe trim up with the front piece edge. Sew it about 3/8" in from edge. When you are finishing up near the beginning of the fringe, trim your end to meet the beginning.
5. On your two back pieces, fold an 18.25" long edge in 1" towards the back. Sew down along the raw edge.
6. Line the unsewn 18.25" sides of the back pieces up to the front piece (good sides inward) on opposite sides. Then line up the top & bottom edges. The sewn edges will overlap in the back to create an envelope opening.
7. Sew around the edges 1/2" in. Instead of sewing all the way into the corner, stop a few stitches ahead and create a small diagonal instead. This will keep the corners from sticking out pointy when on the pillow form. This helps make your pillows look professional.
8. Flip right side out through the overlap hole and insert pillow form.

JOANN HACKS:

• There are clear rulers for rotary cutters that have slits in them for cutting consistently sized strips. This makes fringe making much easier.
• Trim the seam allowance from the corners before flipping to remove bulk.

TASSEL LUMBAR PILLOW 14"x 28"

DIRECTIONS:

1. Cut your fleece front 14.25"x 28.25" & 2 backs 14.25"x 18"
2. Cut 4 pieces of tassel fabric 5" tall by 4" wide. Also, cut 4 strips 1/4" wide from along the edge.
3. Create fringe by cutting most of the way through the height of your tassel pieces about every 3/8" apart to make fringe. This is much easier & quicker to do with a rotary cutter, self-healing mat and clear ruler.
4. Secure the end of one of your thin strips to an upper corner of your tassel piece.
5. Starting with that edge, roll the tassel up tightly.
6. Carefully slide this rolled top under your machine foot. Remember to keep your foot far away from the pedal while you do this. Sew a few stitches along the end to secure.
7. On your two back pieces, fold a 14.25" long edge in 1" towards the back. Sew down along the raw edge.
8. Tack a loose end of the strip inside the tassels to each of the corners of the front piece. With the fringe of the tassel over the body of the front, pin down the fringe so it won’t get caught in the side seams.
9. Line the unsewn 14.25" sides of the back pieces up to the front piece (good sides inward) on opposite sides. Then line up the top & bottom edges. The sewn edges will overlap in the back to create an envelope opening.
10. Sew around the edges 1/2" in. Instead of sewing all the way into the corner, stop a few stitches ahead and create a small diagonal instead. This will keep the corners from sticking out pointy when on the pillow form.
11. Flip right side out through the overlap hole, remove tassel pins, and insert pillow form.

JOANN HACKS:

• There are clear rulers for rotary cutters that have slits in them for cutting consistently sized strips. This makes tassel making much easier.
• Trim the seam allowance from the corners before flipping to remove any bulk.

CIRCLE PILLOW - 16" FORM

DIRECTIONS:

1. Cut 2 circles of fleece 16" across. Remember to center the part of the fabric you want featured.
2. Using with one of the circles, sew piping trim along the edge using an edge stitching foot. Overlap the ends and push the excess towards the seam allowance so the raw edge is hidden.
3. Pin the circles together, making sure the prints line up from front to back. You don’t want one totally crooked.
4. Sew three quarters of the way around the edge of the circle up to the piping, still using the edge stitch foot.
5. Flip the circle right side out. Insert the pillow form.
6. Using the piping as a gauge for seam allowance, fold the seam allowance into the pillow.
7. Topstitch along your fleece fold, inside the piping to catch the front & back. This will close up the opening.

JOANN HACKS:

• Where the piping overlaps pull the rope center out some & trim it to remove the bulk & make sewing the seam much easier.
• For a circle, especially in fleece since it stretches, don't add extra seam allowance. You want the pillow to look full once you fill it.

OVERSIZED PILLOWS – 2 at 20"x 20"

DIRECTIONS:

1. Cut your 2 fleece fronts 20.25"x 20.25" & 4 backs 20.25"x 14".
2. To create flange edges, cut 4 pieces 25"x 5" per pillow.
3. Line up two 5" edges of the flange pieces. Sew the two pieces together in a point shape with a 90 degree angle. This creates a triangle on both corners of the short edge. Trim the triangle areas off leaving 1/2" seam allowance.
4. Repeat step 3 until all 4 flange pieces are attached to create a square. Turn the corners right side out, into points. Stitch along the 45 degree corner lines till about 1/2" from inner corner, to create clean corners. Clip along seam lines from inner corner edge to where you stopped stitching. Repeat for 2nd pillow.
5. On two back pieces, fold a 20.25" edge in 1" towards the back. Sew down along the raw edge.
6. With the corners of the flange pointing inward, sew the flange onto the front piece at almost a 1/2" seam allowance. The clips you made on the inside flange corners will be where you turn the corner. Pull excess of flange corner entirely into the pillow to create a clean angle.
7. Line the unsewn 20.25" sides of the back pieces up to the front piece (good sides inward) on opposite sides. Then line up the top & bottom edges. The sewn edges will overlap in the back to create an envelope opening.
8. Sew around the edges 1/2" in from the edge.
9. Flip right side out through the overlap hole and insert pillow form.
10. Repeat steps 5-9 for second pillow.

JOANN HACKS:

• Trim the seam allowance from the corners before flipping to remove bulk.
• Flange edge is a difficult skill, but fleece is a forgiving fabric, so it’s perfect for learning this skill. It will stretch if your length is slightly off.