Princess Dress with Large Front Pockets

SUPPLIES & TOOLS:

• McCall's® M7829 Jumper View C, Top View A
• Fabric for jumper
• Coordinating fabric for top (extra for pockets)
• 1/2yd muslin for jumper bodice lining, see pattern envelope for other yardage
• Thread
• 1/2" elastic, 1/2yd
• 1/2" buttons, 3
• 12" zipper
• Hook & eye set
• Single fold bias tape if using woven fabric
• Sewing machine
• Basic sewing supplies

DIRECTIONS:

1. Changes to pattern: Although pattern is designed for knits with moderate stretch, project image was made with a woven material. Top was made a bit larger for comfort, 3" was added to sleeve length and bias tape was used to finish neckline. Jumper was hemmed 5/8".
2. Use instruction guide to cut pieces for top View A (1, 2, & extended sleeve 3) and jumper View C (5, 6, 7, & 8). Cut lining pieces (5 & 6) from muslin. Cut 2 pieces for pocket 10" wide and 14" high. Transfer symbols to fabric.
3. TOP: For knits follow pattern instructions. For wovens, use these steps for 6 & 7. Trim 1/4" from neckline. Stay-stitch scant 3/8" from edge of neckline. Press open one side of the single fold bias tape. Pin to neck edge, right sides together, extending tape 3/4" at each end. Sew in a 3/8" seam, clipping neck of garment as needed. Trim seam to 1/4". Fold tape to inside, press and baste in place, folding ends to the inside. From right side, top stitch 1/4" from edge. Remove basting. Complete steps 8-14 and 21-22.
4. JUMPER POCKETS: Turn under upper edge of pocket 1/4", press and stitch close to fold. Fold upper edge 1 3/4", right sides together. Stitch end of fold 1/2" from LEFT side on one pocket and RIGHT side on the other. Trim corner and turn. Press side below corner 1/2" to the wrong side. Press top edge 1 3/4" to the back and stitch bottom edge of fold to pocket. Fold the finished corner to the front forming a triangle with 1 1/2" sides. Press. Open front piece 8 and place pockets on lower skirt, having raw edges on side and bottom. Sew raw edges 1/2" from edges. Edge stitch folded edges along triangle and side. Sew a button on folded triangle, keeping front of skirt free.
5. JUMPER: Follow pattern instructions to complete jumper or see Joann Hacks for alternate bodice and lining construction with no hand sewing at shoulders. For skirt hem, finish bottom edge, turn up 5/8" and sew 1/2" from edge.
6. JOANN HACKS:
7. Jumper bodice can be constructed before attaching skirt:
8. Sew skirt side seams, sew gathering stitches at top edge. Sew shoulder seams of top and lining pieces 5 & 6. Trim and press open. Pin lining and bodice, right sides together at neckline edge. Sew, trim and clip curves. Understitch lining to seam allowance between notches at front and from middle of back to center back. Sew armholes, trim and clip curves. Understitch lining to seam allowance as far as possible. Pull backs through shoulders to the front (a chopstick will help). Turn bodice right side out and press. Pin sides of bodice front to bodice back and lining front to lining back, right sides together. Sew in one continuous seam. Press open seam. Press under 5/8" on lining lower edge. Attach the skirt to the bodice (step 9). Apply zipper (step 11), keeping lining up and out of the way. Slip stitch lining over zipper (step 16).