sewing tips & tricks

Apparel sewing is a great way to customize your wardrobe to fit your
style, size & personality. Here are some tips to get started sewing.

Apparel sewing is a great way to customize your wardrobe to fit your style, size & personality. Here are some tips to get started sewing.

hands sewing blue fabric with a sewing machine surrounded by other dewing supplies

sewing supplies beside a black and gray bag

tips & tricks for patterns

• Start with a simpler design to learn the basics of reading patterns and how to alter a pattern to your size.
• Sewing patterns vary between brands, so use your measurements, not other pattern sizes or ready-to-wear sizes, to guide your work..
• Make sure you have all pattern pieces laid out right side up and according to the grain direction. This is important when working with prints, patterns sequins and furs.
• Remember, more distinctive or larger prints work better with simpler pattern styles. Showcase intricate designs and stitches on solid fabrics.
• Mark the pattern on the wrong side of the fabric.

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how to align patterned fabric

It’s important to plan ahead when sewing with patterned fabric, especially stripes & plaids. Buy extra yardage to match the prints at seams, and make sure the pattern is facing the same direction when cutting your pattern pieces.

hands holding down fabric on a cutting board

woman threading a sewing needle through the sleeve of a pink blouse

tips & tricks for thread

• Use the correct thread type based on fabric and garment. Refer to the pattern envelope for recommendation.
• Do not use hand sewing thread in the sewing machine. There is special thread for machine sewing.
• Cotton thread is not as strong as polyester but works well for lighter-weight cotton fabrics and woven natural fiber fabrics.
• Select a thread color that is a shade darker than the fabric, as thread looks lighter when sewn.
• Run thread through beeswax to prevent it from twisting or creating a knot while hand sewing.
• Polyester thread is strong and has some give to it. As such, it works well with sturdy fabrics that take a lot of wear and stretchy fabrics, such as knit or spandex.

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tips & tricks for tools & needles

• Sharp, high-quality scissors and rotary cutters are key for cutting fabric. Only use fabric scissors to cut fabric. Using fabric scissors to cut paper and other materials can dull the blades prematurely, which can improperly cut fabric and can be unsafe to use.
• Ensure the sewing machine needle is sharp. A dull needle can break, damage fabric or cause thread breakage.
• Change needles after 8 hours of work. Use a new needle when working with a delicate fabric.
• Prevent an applique from moving while sewing by using tape on the edges of the applique and fabric. Use a zigzag stitch over the tape and easily pull tape off when finished.

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table with sewing supplies and sewing sketches scattered around

tips & tricks for tools & needles

• Understand the fiber content of the fabric you are working with. Always refer to the end of the bolt for fabric care instructions before purchasing.
• Prewash fabrics as instructed before cutting and sewing to avoid shrinkage once the garment is constructed.
• Always test a swatch of fabric on the sewing machine before beginning garment construction to ensure proper tension and stitch length.
• Iron using a heat setting appropriate for the fabric content. An iron that is too hot can scorch or damage the fabric and potentially the iron.
• To remove scorch marks from most fabrics, dampen a piece off white cotton cheesecloth with hydrogen peroxide and lay on top of scorch mark. Lightly iron with a medium hot iron for a few seconds.
• Use a zigzag stitch on a standard sewing machine or a serger to create finished edges and seams. The details in garment construction will help the fabric drape correctly.

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fabric direction matters

Make sure you have all pattern pieces laid out right side up and according to the grain direction. This is important when working with prints, patterns, sequins and furs. Mark an up arrow on the back of your fabric to avoid confusion when cutting.

assortment of fabric hanging up on a wood drying rack

fabric drape explained

Drape is how fabric falls against your body and affects how a garment looks & fits. Place fabric over your arm and observe how it falls to determine if it has a fluid, moderate of voluminous drape.