Throwback Cartoon Bag and Backpacks

HEY ARNOLD BACKPACK

SUPPLIES & TOOLS:

• 1/2yd Main Fabric
• 1/2yd Contrast 1 for Bottom and Sides
• 1/2yd Contrast 2 for Top and Front Pocket
• 3/4yd Lining
• 1 1/2yd Pellon FF77 Sew In Flex-Foam
• 3/4yd Pellon SF102 Shape-Flex Woven Interfacing
• 20" and 9" Polyester Zipper
• 2 1/4yd 1" Nylon Webbing
• 1" Rectangle Rings, 2
• 1" Slide Adjusters, 2
• Thread
• Sewing Machine
• Basic Sewing Machines

DIRECTIONS:

1. Cutting Directions: From Main fabric, cut 1 front and 1 back 13"x 17" and from Flex-Foam cut 1 front and 1 back 13 1/2"x 17 1/2". From Contrast 1, cut 2 sides 5"x 11 1/2" and 1 bottom 5"x 13" and from flex foam 2 sides 5 1/2"x 12" and 1 bottom 5 1/2"x 13 1/2". From Contrast 2 and Shape-Flex, cut
2. 1 top 5"x 22" and pocket 9"x 13". From Lining cut front, back, top, bottom and 2 sides using dimensions above. Cut Shape-Flex 5"x 22" for top of lining.
3. Apply Shape-Flex interfacing to corresponding pieces. Press backpack outer fabrics and center on corresponding foam pieces. Baste longest sides first, 1/4" from fabric edge. Sew off edges, do not pivot. Trim excess foam from around fabric.
4. Use a 5" diameter circle to round the top edges of all fronts and backs. Sew curved area on foam 1/4" from edge.
5. Top Zipper: On interfaced side of top, mark an 18" horizontal line 2 1/2" from top and ending 2" from each end. Draw additional 18" lines 1/4" above and 1/4" below the first line. Place a dot on the center line 1/2" from each end and connect the dot to the ends of the top and bottom lines. Reduce stitch length to 2mm and sew along top and bottom lines. Cut center line and diagonal lines
6. (ex. >----------<). Mark center of the opening and the center of the 20" zipper. Install zipper foot. Matching centers, pin right side of zipper to right side of long opening. Sew along the previous stitching line of opening, keeping triangle at end free. Repeat on other side of opening. Tuck triangles to the wrong side and move zipper slide into the opening. With the zipper on the bottom, lift up fabric at each end to expose the triangles and zipper end. Sew across base of triangle several times to secure. Cut zipper ends 1/4" from stitching.
7. Pocket Zipper: Follow same procedure as for top using a 9" zipper and drawing the line 7" wide, 2" from top and 3" from each end.
8. Pocket Construction: Mark a line 8 1/2" up from bottom edge on bag front. On the wrong side of pocket, draw a line 1/2" from top. Matching lines, place pocket on front, right sides together (Bottom of pocket will be at the top of the front). Sew along the marked line. Flip pocket down and baste to front on sides and bottom.
9. From nylon webbing cut 2 pieces 30", 1 piece 9" and 2 pieces 2 1/2". Pass ends of nylon webbing near a candle flame to lightly melt raw edges to prevent fraying (Do not use this method with cotton webbing). Insert a 2 1/2" strap into each rectangle ring and sew at ends and close to the base of the ring (use a zipper foot). Attach to bottom edge of backpack back, centering each strap 4 1/2" from center and aligning raw edges. Sew several times 1/4" from edge to reinforce. Loop 30" strap through rectangle ring and attach strap adjuster. Baste free end of each strap to top of bag centering 2" from center. For the handle, fold 9" piece in half lengthwise and sew 1/8" along the open side starting and ending 2" from each end. Open ends and lay over the basted strap at top of bag, matching raw edges. Sew several times to reinforce.
10. With right sides together, sew short ends of each backpack side to bottom and attach zippered top to sides. Mark center of front and back at the top and bottom. Mark center of zippered top and the bottom piece. Match centers, right sides together, and sew the top/side/bottom unit to bag front. Make 1/4" clips along straight edges to ease into curved areas. Open the zipper and sew unit to backpack back, reinforcing stitching over webbing areas. Trim seam allowances to 1/4" except over ends of webbing. Turn the bag to the right side.
11. For lining, prepare the top opening as for the bag top. Fold long edges and triangles to the wrong side and press. Edgestitch around opening. Assemble lining as for bag except use a 5/8" seam. Trim seams to 1/4". Place lining into bag, wrong sides together. Align lining opening along stitching on zipper tape. From outside of the backpack, edgestitch along the zipper opening 1/8" from the folded fabric edge as far as possible on both sides. On the inside, slip stitch unsewn ends.

JOANN HACKS:

• Lining is sewn with a 5/8" seam to fit better inside a padded bag.
• Use Wonder Clips instead of pins when working with Flex-Foam.
• Use Fray Check to seal ends of cotton webbing or turn under ends and sew.
• Use polyester zippers which can easily be trimmed.
• Use Wonder Tape to hold the zipper in place instead of pins.
• Iron fabrics with steam before applying interfacings to allow for shrinkage.
• Optional: Use Shape-Flex for lining zippered top and a lightweight interfacing for other lining pieces.

CATDOG BACKPACK

SUPPLIES & TOOLS:

• 2/3yd Main Fabric
• 1/4yd Contrast 1
• 3/4yd Contrast 2
• 1 1/2yd Pellon Shape Flex SF101
• 1/2yd Pellon Fusible Fleece 987F
• 1 1/4yd Pellon Lightweight Fusible P44F
• 1/2yd Pellon Tru Grid for creating pattern
• Thread
• 2yd nylon webbing
• Dritz Center Release Buckle #475, 2
• 9" Polyester Zipper
• 1" Shank Button
• Pattern Graph

DIRECTIONS:

1. Create Pattern on Tru Grid using the pattern graph for reference. Mark the Tru Grid squares block by block according to the squares on the pattern graph. Each square on the pattern represents one 1" square of the Tru Grid. Mark where the lines enter and exit each square. Connect the lines. When completed, cut out the pattern and use it for the front, back and flap.
2. Cutting directions:
3. Main Fabric: Cut 1 front, 1 back and 1 flap on fold; Contrast 1: Cut 1 flap, 4 1/2"x 9 1/2" upper pocket, 2 1/2"x 7" handle, and 1 1/2"x 3 1/2" button loop which is cut on the bias; Contrast 2: 6 1/2"x 9 1/2" lower pocker, 9 1/2"x 11" pocket back, 1 front and 1 back for lining; Shape Flex: 1 front, 1 back, 2 flaps, 1 lower pocket, 1 upper pocket, 1 handle; Fusible Fleece: 1 front, 1 back and 1 lining; Pellon P44F: 1 front, 1 back for lining, 1 pocket back.
4. Fuse all corresponding pieces. NOTE: Iron all fabric pieces before applying interfacing. To prevent wrinkles, the front, back and outer flap are first fused with Shape Flex and then the fusible fleece is applied over the Shape Flex.
5. Press the button loop in half lengthwise, fold the raw edges to the center, fold and press. Sew 1/8" along each long edge. Repeat procedure with interfaced handle and set aside.
6. Mark outer flap at center bottom. Pin button loop with inner edges meeting at the bottom center, having raw edges even. Baste 1/4" from edge. Pin flap lining to flap, right sides together, sew, leaving top open. Trim seams, clip, turn and baste 1/4" along upper raw edges. Baste handle with inner edges touching and raw edges even, at the center of the right side of the back. Baste raw edges 1/4" and 3/8" from edge.
7. Change to zipper foot. Pin zipper to bottom of upper pocket, right sides together, placing zipper tab 5/8" from edge and having long edges even. Sew 1/4" from zipper edge. Attach the other side of zipper to the top of the lower pocket. Press seams away from zipper. Sew pocket back to zippered front along sides and bottom. Reinforce stitching at zipper ends. Trim and turn, baste upper edge 1/4". Pin pocket to front, having upper edges even and pocket centered. Stitch 1/8" around sides and bottom.
8. Mark and sew 1" pleats in front and back. Press front pleats to center and back pleats to outside.
9. Mark pattern notches on back for webbing placement. Cut 2 pieces of webbing 8" and 2 pieces 28". To seal the edges of nylon webbing, pass edge near a candle flame (For cotton webbing, use anti-fray liquids). Separate the parachute clips and put the 8" piece through the female end. Fold with raw edges even and stitch at ends and near the buckle. Place webbing next to the handle at notches and stitch raw edges at 1/4" and 3/8" from edge. Sew one edge of 26" webbing at the notches on bottom and stitch raw edges. Thread the loose end through the male part of the buckle per instructions.
10. Sew backpack front to back, nesting pleats, and reinforcing webbing areas. Trim fleece to 1/4" except in webbing areas. Baste flap to back, right side of main fabric together, 1/4" from edge.
11. Mark, sew and press darts in the lining. Sew sides and bottom, using a 5/8" seam allowance, nesting darts and leaving a 6" opening in the bottom for turning. Trim seams. Place back pack into lining, right sides together, matching side seams and front and back centers. Sew 1/2" seam around top. Trim seam, except over webbing. Pull backpack through opening in lining. Top stitch 1/4" from upper edge. Sew opening in lining closed. Mark button placement and sew in place.

JOANN HACKS:

• Copying onto Tru Grid from a graph eliminates the need to enlarge and tape patterns together. The Tru Grid pattern is reusable and easy to store.
• Lining is sewn with a 5/8" seam to fit better inside a padded bag.
• Using a variety of interfacings will give bags a professional look.

JUNGLE CROSSBODY BAG

SUPPLIES & TOOLS:

• 7/8yd Jungle Fabric/Main Fabric
• 3/8yd Contrast Fabric for Flap and Strap
• 3/8yd Lining Fabric
• 1yd Pellon SF101 Shape-Flex Interfacing
• 1yd Pellon 987F Fusible Fleece
• Thread
• Sewing Machine
• Basic Sewing Supplies

DIRECTIONS:

1. From jungle fabric or main fabric and SF101 cut 3 pieces 12" wide x 9" high (front, back and flap); 3 pieces 3" wide x 28" long (gusset and straps should be cut lengthwise along the straight grain); Cut 1 piece 8 1/2"x 8 1/2" (inside pocket). SF101 is 20" wide, cut gusset and strap interfacing 2 1/2" wide.
2. From contrast fabric and 987F cut 1 piece 12" wide x 9" high (flap) and 2 pieces 3"x 28" (contrast straps are cut crosswise).
3. From lining and 987F cut 2 pieces 12" wide x 9" high (front and back) and 1 piece 3"x 28" (lining gusset is cut crosswise).
4. According to directions, iron SF101 and 987F to the wrong side of each corresponding fabric piece.
5. Using a 2" diameter circle, round both bottom corners of all fronts, backs and flaps.
6. Pocket: Fold pocket, right sides together, and stitch along sides and bottom, leaving an opening in bottom to turn. Turn, press, and position on lining back, 3" from top edge and 2" from sides. Edgestitch along sides and bottom, closing opening.
7. Lining: Mark centers of gusset, back, and front. Sew gusset to front and back, matching ends and centers. Clip gusset as needed 1/8" at curves. Leave a 5" opening for turning in the center of lining front.
8. Outer bag and flap: Apply gusset to bag front and back. Sew flap and flap contrast, right sides together. Turn, press and sew 1/8" from open edge. Pin flap to bag back, main fabric together and sew 1/4" from edge.
9. Straps: Sew short ends of main fabric together. Repeat with contrast. Press seam open, With right sides together, sew long edges, turn and press. Pin and sew (1/4") strap ends to outer bag gusset, main prints together.
10. Finishing: Place outer bag inside lining, matching seams and having right sides together. Sew 1/2" seam around upper edge. Pull bag through opening in lining. Press. With flap and strap up and away from bag top, topstitch 1/4" from upper edge. Slip stitch lining opening closed. On the outside of each strap, mark the center of the strap 1" and 3" above the side gusset seam line. Fold each strap, contrast side together, and stitch 1/4" from fold between the marks.

JOANN HACKS:

• When straps are pinned to the gusset, try bag on and shorten each strap equally if necessary.
• If a directional print is used, add 1/2" to gusset length, cut in half and resew in a 1/4" seam so part of gusset will not be upside down. One strap would also need to be reversed before being sewn together.
• Pocket will accommodate a cell phone, but may be divided by sewing vertically as desired. Add another pocket to the bag front.