Womens Dragon Costume

SUPPLIES & TOOLS:

• Simplicity pattern 8670 A
• Notions and fabric from pattern
• Fabric: Black: arms, Blue: center of front and back, Scales: legs and sides of front and back
• Sewing machine
• Ruler
• Pencil
• Scissors
• X-Acto® knife, #11 Blade
• Scroll Saw, fine tooth blade
• Band saw, 1/4" blade
• Cutting board
• Rotary tool, stone drum bit (optional)
• Sandpaper, 60 grit (1 sheet)
• Heat gun
• Contact cement, 3oz (2)
• Mod Podge, Matte, 8oz (1)
• Painter's Blue Tape (optional)
• Needle
• Black thread
• Brushes: 2" foam, #4 flat, 1/2" flat, 1" flat
• Muscle Foam, 24"x 40": 1/8" (1), 1/4" (2), 1/2" (1)
• Deco Art, Metallic Extreme Sheen Paint: Deep Sapphire, 2oz (1), Aquamarine, 2oz (1)
• Folk Art, Metallic Paint: Sequin Black, 2oz (1)
• Paint palette
• 1"x 2yds black belting/strapping (2 pieces)
• Large safety pin (optional)
• 2pk 1" adjustable slide buckles (1)

DIRECTIONS:

1. Sew the costume pattern A. Use black for arms, solid blue for center of front and back and scale pattern for sides of front and back and legs.

Wings:

2. Trace the full wing pattern on to one sheet of 1/8" foam. Cut out wings using an X-Acto knife or scissors.
3. The front of the wings is the side closest to the body.
4. Trace four of each A, B, C & D patterns on 1/4" foam. Two of A with lower curve end (for the back of the wings) and two of A with straight cut ends (for the front of the wings). Two of D with shaded ends removed (for the back of the wings) and two of D with the shaded ends (for the front of the wings). Strap holes cut in B & C on one set only. The holes will be cut through all the other layers when glued together.
5. Heat all foam surfaces and edges with the heat gun. See Tips.
6. Lay down the full wing sheet. Lay all the front parts, A, B, C & D, (B & C without strap holes) on top, lining up as per the full wing pattern. Trace around each with a pencil. Remove and apply contact cement as per manufacturers directions. Apply A first, C second, D third then B. Thumb rub seams together immediately to close any slight gaps. Tape may be applied to hold the seams together until secure.
7. Flip over full wing panel and draw the center line between the wings.
8. Cut two of the thick scales pattern from 1/2" foam. Heat the two parts.
9. Line up the center lines of the thick scales with the full wings center. The bottom center will be flush. The top of the thick scales will extend above the full wings.
10. Trace and glue in place. Glue the center first. Since the thick scales extend beyond the wing pattern, do not apply glue to the outermost thick scales.
11. Lay the second set of the 1/4" back A - D on top of the thick scales. Trace location and glue same as reverse side.
12. From the back, use an X-Acto knife to cut strap holes through to the front.
13. Curve the wings. Heat both sides of the thick area of A between the strap holes and the center panel. Hold the center of the wings with one hand and pull and bend A with the other hand. Bend this area toward the back. Hold until curve set. Heat band C between the lower strap holes and the center panel. Pull and bend to match the upper curve. Repeat for the other side. These areas may be heated multiple times until the desired curve is achieved. Avoid heating the 1/8" foam inside the wings. Over curve when bending areas. Some relaxation of the curves is expected once the foam has cooled completely.
14. One at a time, heat both sides of upward curves of D. Avoid heating the 1/8" foam. Pinch together the two lower points of D to bend. Hold until curve set. Do this for all upward curves to make an accordion fold at the bottom edge of the wing. Repeat for the other side.
15. Cut the scales and the center panels from 1/8" foam. Heat the center panels only. Curves may be created in these panels by holding the center top and pressing a thumb into the lower scales, pulling down and curling the tips of the scales up. Practice on a scrap to learn how much heat is needed and what hand motions can achieve. This foam will heat quickly. Overheating will create irregular distortions that are difficult to correct.
16. Start applying scales at the lowest outer point of A. See photos for layout. Front of wings will start lower than the back. There is one additional single scale on each side of the front. Apply glue to the 1/2" of the scales closest to the straight edge. Glue 3-4 scales at a time. See reference photos for layout of scales.
17. Optional: Use a stone bit in a rotary tool to better align layered edges of foam. In addition, sandpaper may be used to remove any minor imperfections. Test on scrap first.
18. Run heat over all the scales. This will help in the adhesion of the Mod Podge and give a more natural look to the scales.
19. Paint a thin layer of Mod Podge over all areas of the wings with a 2" foam brush. Lift each scale set slightly to apply underneath. Let dry for a few minutes. Spread out any puddles that form in crevices with a #4 flat brush. Let dry completely before flipping and coating the other side.

Paint:

20. Use the largest brush possible. 1" flat brush works well for large areas. When painting the scales Aquamarine use a 1/2" flat brush. Paint wet on wet. Direction of strokes of paint will be apparent due to the nature of the metallic paint. Plan the directions of strokes.
21. Paint Deep Sapphire on 1/8" foam inside wings and the edges that surround the panels and below the center plates on the back. Use curved strokes that mimic the curves of the ribs. Two coats.
22. Black on all outer edges of the wings, claws at outer most top points and all scales. Two coats.
23. Let dry, flip and repeat.
24. Aquamarine on all scales. To accentuate the shapes created by the scales paint only the tips of the scales to 1/8" from the next scale. Start in the center of the wings and work toward the outer ends. Paint the top surface of the thick scales leaving the edges Black, the center panels, leaving a 1/8" gap between the two center panels on the back, and all B, C & D tops only, edges should already have Deep Sapphire coating. Two coats.
25. Let dry, flip and repeat.
26. Cut strapping/belting, two 21" for top straps, two 16" for bottom straps. Attach a large safety pin onto the end of one 21" strap. Weave from the front of the wings through the top strap hole and back through the lower top strap hole. Remove the safety pin. Fold the raw edge under 1/2" and hand sew together to secure the strap to the wing. Repeat.
27. Take slide buckles and attach to the other end of each of the top straps. Fold under raw ends 1/2" and hand sew.
28. Attach the bottom straps same as the top but enter first in the bottom strap hole and bring strap back through the top hole.
29. Finish raw ends. Slide the finished ends through slide buckles.
30. Flip so back side of wings is up. Use Aquamarine paint on the black belting loops that are visible.

Craft Hack Tips and Tricks:

• Use 1/4" & 1/2" scroll saw for tight curves and a band saw for slight curves and straight cuts.
• Test heating the foam with the heat gun. Hold the gun 2" from the surface to be heated and move in a circular fashion. The surface quickly changes color when heated enough. Heating is necessary for the contact cement to be most effective and for the Mod Podge to adhere.
• Use foam brush to apply Mod Podge. Most other brushes will leave a texture on the surface that will show up when painted with metallic or gloss paints.
• Store foam creations hanging to prevent denting.