Foundations

Like the foundation of a building, sewing foundations give
support & structure to a garment. Here are some of the
most common ones you might encounter.

Like the foundation of a building, sewing foundations give support & structure to a garment. Here are some of the most common ones you might encounter.

interfacing

Interfacing is the inner construction material that lies between layers of fashion fabric. It adds stability, shape, strength and body to every project. Many garments require some type of interfacing. You can find it in collars, cuffs, waistbands, lapels, necklines, buttonholes and any opening that needs additional stability or support. There are three different types of interfacing: non-woven, woven and knit. These types come in either fusible or sew-in applications and come in different weights and colors. A rule of thumb to follow when choosing interfacing is to always choose a weight that is the same or slightly lighter than the fabric you are using. Let’s take a closer look at the three types and applications of interfacing.

3 types of interfacing

woven interfacing

Woven interfacing has a lengthwise and crosswise grain just like woven fabrics. Matching the grain of the interfacing with the grain on the fabric is a crucial part to ensure the two layers work together properly. The matching grain requirement of woven interfacing may have to be cut on the bias. This tends to be stronger and more stable than non-woven interfacing. Woven tends to be used for more tailored garments.

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non-woven interfacing

Non-woven interfacing is made by bonding or felting fibers together, creating a mesh without visible direction and therefore without grain. This type can be cut in any direction, won’t ravel and is very easy to use. The only fabric this can't be used with is a stretch fabric, like jersey knit.

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knit interfacing

Knit interfacing is usually soft and flexible with a stretch crosswise but minimum lengthwise stretch. This type is suitable for garments using jersey knit and other stretchy fabrics as it will stretch with the garment and not hinder it. Knit interfacing can be used on woven fabrics when you want a softer shape or when you want to maintain stretch in the fabric after the interfacing has been applied.

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fusible interfacing

Fusible Interfacing backed with an adhesive that melts with the heat of an iron to bond the interfacing to your fabric. This method is very popular because it’s fast, easy to apply and great for the beginner sewer. When using this type of interfacing, let it completely cool prior to handling.

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folder over corner of white sewn-in interfacing

sew-in interfacing

Sew-in interfacing is sewn onto the main fabric just like another normal layer of fabric and is held in place with stitches. This can also result in a more natural shaping and drape as there is less stiffness to it. Sew-in is usually recommended for lace, mesh, heat-sensitive and very textured or napped fabrics. This type of interfacing isn’t recommended for the beginner sewer.

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More Interfacing Tips & Tricks

• It’s important to verify the weight of the fabric against the weight of the interfacing.
• Use dark interfacing with dark fabric and light interfacing with light fabric.
• Every bolt of interfacing has a sheet in the center that will provide you with instructions.
• Always test a swatch of fusible interfacing before using it for a project. Iron temperatures can vary, so a test will help determine the proper setting to use with a press cloth.
• If the fusible test swatch looks wrinkled, the fabric may be shrinking. Wash fabric again or use a lower fusing temperature. If the interfacing is too heavy, try a lighter weight or use a sew-in style.
• Fusibles are meant to be permanent. If you want to remove interfacing from fabric that is not completely fused, reheat the area while pressing lightly. While warm, gently peel up.
• To remove fusible residue from fabric, iron with a dryer sheet or use a spot remover made for glue and adhesive.
• Use a hot iron cleaner to remove any fusible residue on the iron. Follow package directions.
• How to tell which is the fusible side: Most products have a dot adhesive. You can see or feel small dots on the rough side. If the product has a coated adhesive, the fusible side will be shiny.

Bra Inserts

If you’re sewing women’s apparel, you may want to think about a bra insert to eliminate the need to wear a bra or accessories to ensure proper coverage.

Accessories

Bra strap holders, bra extenders, lingerie strap slides and rings can help your existing bra work stay put and adapt to your needs. Clear plastic straps allow you to wear your own bra without distracting from your outfit. Fashion straps with fashion pearl and rhinestone details help you make a statement while also giving support.

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Bras & Bra Cups

Get coverage and protection while going braless. Simply choose the desired cup style--sew-in, molded or push-up--in your cup size, attach and go!

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Inserts & Gel Cups

Naturally enhance any look. Enhancers can fit into your bra or in addition to sewn-in cups. They’re removable and reusable so you can wear multiple times with a variety of garments.

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Adhesive Cups & Bras

Adhesives offer support and concealment while wearing plunging necklines, cutout clothing, backless dresses and other garments.

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Shoulder Pads

Typically used in jackets or tops, shoulder pads can give form and structure to a garment. Shoulder pads can help slenderize a silhouette or camouflage sloping shoulders. Shoulder pads also help retain a garment’s shape when hung on a hanger. The basic kinds of shoulder pads are set-in, raglan, all-purpose and foam. Shoulder pads are available in range of sizes and materials.

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Elastics

Using elastic in sewing allows your fabric to be stretched to better keep it in place. There are many types of elastic and a variety of instances where it could be used.

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wovens

plush-back, flat non-roll and ribbed non-roll, underwear and
pajamas, buttonhole and waistband

knits

stretch lace, knit, knit non-roll,
sport and drawcord stretch lace, knit, knit non-roll, sport and drawcord

braids

braided, soft stretch, ballet
and swimwear braided, soft stretch, ballet and swimwear

cords

beading, oval and round cord

specialty

thread and clear